Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pseudo Hawk's Nest

ABM TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bagatelle T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Beginner's Delight T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beginners Demise TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Delight T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chicken Tonight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Couch of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cracking Up T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Death & Disfiguration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death and Transfiguration T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Degrade Your Sister T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Epiphany T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fakir, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heroes Fright T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Immaculate Conception TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
October First T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phlogiston T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Pretzel, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prime Rib T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pseudo Skyline T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tharsis T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Waxing Moon TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wild Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,635 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 25, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


55 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Cracking up is a nice 5.6 to the right of Bagatelle (rt 179). Ascend the very steep initial section using some stemming. About 10 feet off the deck try some solid laybacks and inch your way up until holds appear on the right-hand wall. Climb about 15 feet to another section of laybacks. Use this technique to get near the top, then finish on easier terrain.

Protection

Bring your Big Bro's for this one.

Photos

Aawait
  5.6
Aawait  
  5.6
A pair of #3 BD Camalots worked well for me(a little bit run out) Aug 19, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
It's quite possible to get decent side-gear in Epiphany, too, to your right. However the gear in Epiphany is pretty technical: small, fairly shallow, and you have to get the right piece in *just* the right position for it to be really good. Oct 31, 2011
Gokul

  5.6
Gokul    
  5.6
Fun lead. I had no big gear on me, so ended up running out most of it - found two spots along the way that took hand-sized cams. Oct 31, 2011
NickinCO
colorado
  5.7
NickinCO   colorado
  5.7
Big gear for sure! My first trad lead, I went up with a few C4 #4's and wished I had some 5's and 6's. I did get to place a #2 big bro which was sweet. Oct 17, 2010
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Doug... the climber at the base of the climb (had just led Crack'n Up himself) while you were climbing commented he was impressed with your taking advantage of the run-outs this climb affords.... Sep 8, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Did this route yet again, recently. Two pieces of Big Gear is a good idea. Sep 8, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Big gear! Sep 7, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
 
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
 
I walked my biggest cam up continuously. the sequence was as follows; layback move, layback move, hike feet up, walk cam, repeat as necessary. Should see more traffic. Better than Foreplay for sure and I thought it was less fun than Curving Crack (albeit on different rock with some slight differences in style) Aug 29, 2009
Ta-Chi Wang  
 
Agree with Doug. This is a great route: long, moderate, easy-to-protect, and exposed, deserving more people to lead it. I used a Camalot #6 (#5 will also do if you put it deeper) on the crux and the layback on it was just much FUN! May 24, 2009