Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,500 total · 7/month
Shared By: Craig McCudden on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Start on the detached block and move a little left following a crack through what appears to be a shattered face but is WAY solid. Finish on the ledge.

Protection

The route goes with all stoppers and Tri-Cams

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Gear to 2 inches. At the crux you'll want a small nut, tri-cam, or a small cam.

The part of the route above the pillar is short but sustained, and I've heard loads of people describe this route as "pumpy."

At least two people I know have broken bones trying to lead this route: be sure you get a good directional as you leave the top of the pillar. Aug 4, 2008
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.7
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.7
Is this route to the right of Prime Rib and Degrade Your Sister? The route description says "detached block" and the only one in the area I know of is right by those routes. I could really investigate for myself but I'm feeling awfully lazy. Thanks! Sep 16, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Yes. Next route to the right of "Degrade My Sister". You climb up behind the big block and start the route coming off the top of this block which makes the starting moves proper of the route a bit sketchy on the lead as in not so much for lousy gear but just make sure you place it well and often so that if you fall you don't go hitting the block as in the examples Doug alludes to above. This is a really good route for the grade otherwise with pumpy, devious, and sustained climbing and good gear to protect. Sep 17, 2010