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Get Smart 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,400
Submitted By: adam brink on Apr 4, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Ross, about to feel a little pump.

  • 2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This sweet crack line is the obvious, wide crack to right-leaning fingers and hands directly to the left of the bolted route Plan B. There is a small bush at the very start of the crack.

    For some amazing reason, Get Smart gets no stars in the guide. I thought it was an amazing and varied line with lots of great moves and bomber rock. It is easily as good as any crack in Boulder Canyon.

    The line starts with either burly offwidthing or wide stemming up the corner and over several small roofs. Just where the crack jogs right you have a chance for some rest and you better take it. The locks start good but get progressively looser as you head over two small roofs toward the anchors. The crux is hanging on through the pumpy moves to the anchors.

    I don't know if a 50 meter rope will make it all the way down. Tie a knot in the end!


    Everything from the biggest cams to small finger sizes.

    Photos of Get Smart Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Get Smart, one of my favorite climbs.
    Get Smart, one of my favorite climbs.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming the overhanging corner above the wide sta...
    Stemming the overhanging corner above the wide sta...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up the crux section. You can avoid the fina...
    Midway up the crux section. You can avoid the fina...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming leads to laybacking the upper half of the...
    Stemming leads to laybacking the upper half of the...

    Comments on Get Smart Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 8, 2005

    Hey Adam:

    Did they lift the raptor closure for Security already? What about Blob Rock -- still closed, usually this one is opened early (before Aug 1) too, unlike Eagle Rock?
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Apr 8, 2005

    I looked on-line a few days ago and this area is open. Blob and Bitty are still closed.
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 12, 2005

    Hey Dan,

    The rangers and signs say that the Security Risk crags are open early this year. If you want to get out there, drop me an email.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Apr 18, 2005

    I've wanted to do this route since I first saw it about 2 years ago, but Rossiter's 10dS rating scared me away. Adam's posting of this climb reinspired me. Turns out you can get as much gear as you want, and it may be soft for 10d.

    You'll want a 4.5 and 5 Camalot for the wide crack. I placed a couple more big cams since we carried our nuclear arsenal up the hill, not knowing what we'd be up against. We all stemmed the wide start, and it was fun and interesting--not at all a grovel. Above the wide crack is an airy moderate overhanging corner. If you don't have double in hand-sized cams (#2 Camalot), you'll want to move your one cam that fits up at least once. You could belay (or bivvy) on the lie-down ledge, but it's better to keep going so that you'll have more rope out for the hard part.

    The crux shallow right facing right leaning corner is made reasonable by the occasionaly positive foothold. I placed 7 pieces in this corner from a #3 Camalot at the very bottom to a 1/4" nut at the last move. The other pieces were in the red Alien to #.75 Camalot size. No micro cams, although you might get one at the last move. The crux for me was, as Adam implies, the last move over the overhang, due to accumulated pump and placing the last piece rather than to technical difficulties. Both my partners, Luke and Chuck, avoided this by stepping left onto the face directly below the anchor bolts.

    Overall, the start was better than I expected, and the upper corner was easier and much shorter and safer than I expected.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Apr 19, 2005

    I believe the "serious" rating in the guidebook pertains to the 10d s last pitch that comes after the route description by Adam above. I don't think it gets done very often... it looks fairly lichenous and perhaps a bit chossy, as well as run out! And it's also very short, 30 or 40 feet?
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Apr 20, 2005

    Steve, We considered continuing up and right (but without consulting a guidebook), but it looked easy and there were bolts that are, apparently, a continuation of Plan B. Perhaps, staying left of the bolts is hard and poorly protected, but it never crossed my mind to avoid the bolts. More likely, I was so relieved to get to the anchors, that I just wanted down.
    By Rich Farnham
    Jul 25, 2009

    I highly recommend this route. I don't know about soft for 10d, but who knows? 10+ seems about right.

    I wouldn't call the start "burly offwidthing". It felt about 5.9 to me. Could be a little harder if you had really small hands; I was able to get a few good fist jams along the way.

    For newer BD sizes (C4s), I used one each of 4, 5, and 6. This is sufficient to be well protected for the start without sewing it up. There may be other gear there. I had the big stuff so I wasn't looking. I'd take doubles in the 0.5 to 0.75 Camalot range.

    This climb doesn't have any bad sections.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Jan 3, 2012

    You can get by with a single #5 C4, if you don't mind bumping up the cam for 25ft from good stances. The crack is mostly #5 sized, so an extra #5 or Big bro could be used instead of the #6.

    Here is my rack for next time:
    1 set 0.4-5 C4
    Yellow, grey, red Alien
    Extra 0.75
    1 set med-lrg nuts.
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 25, 2012

    Great route! I'm surprised it doesn't get climbed more. We only had a 55m rope and had plenty left. Maybe a new anchor was put in lower on the pitch?

    The "OW" start is not bad, and much more logical to stem around given all the feet. Single new #5 is plenty on the big gear.
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Nov 12, 2013
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Pretty great route for a cool autumn afternoon... ah! I brought a new #5 Camalot and #4 and felt pretty secure with both of these pieces. I thought the OW was going to be the crux, but... I was wrong and pleasantly surprised when I entered the upper crux. Super fun, very well-protected crack climb on good rock in an amazing position! Get on it!

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