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Elevation: 539 ft
GPS: 45.8211, 15.9741
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Shared By: Mark Roth on Jun 1, 2010 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

Croatia is a beautiful country with amazing climbing. There are over 60 existing crags, and plenty of rock left still to be developed. There are over a thousand islands in the country which contribute to almost 6000 km of coastline. Needless to say, you'll never be far from the beach.

This country is a limestone lovers paradise. There is everything from bouldering, short well bolted sport routes, super long sport and trad routes, to deep water soloing. You can climb year round by either seeking the sun in winter, or finding shade in the summer with a mid day swim to cool off.

Croatia has a rich climbing history dating back to at least the 1930's. In 1931 Emilio Comici climbed Veliki Toranj at Vele Draga on the Istrian Peninsula. Word of this impressive tower and the others of the area spread back to Italy and put Croatian climbing on the map (oops, just found out Istria was part of Italy at that time, until after WWII). 1938 saw the first attempts at climbing Anica Kuk, one of the biggest and best walls in the country. There have been many waves of development throughout the years. Visiting Austrian, German, and Italians as well as local climbers have been putting up new routes for decades. Since the end of the conflicts in the 90's the country has become more and more inviting for traveling climbers. The city of Omis, in order to promote tourism, pays for the bolting!

There is great camping throughout the country, Hotels or apartments are also affordable.

Guide books: Paklenica by Boris Cujic covers only Paklenica

and Croatia by Boris Cujic covers the rest of the country.

the crags on the Istrian Peninsula are also covered in a book called "Climbing without frontiers" Which also covers some crags in Italy and Slovenia. I'll add links to the guide books when I find them...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Croatia-Climbing-Guidebook-Boris-Cujic/dp/9536912082

Getting There Suggest change

Most of the major cities have airports. Split or Zadar are probably the most centrally located, although you could manage from any of the major airports. Most areas are accessible by bus or train. Another option, especially if you will rent a car, is to fly into Italy, Slovenia, or even Germany. I flew into Munich and drove down. There is plenty of climbing and scenery on the way, and it's only a little over 5 hours to the boarder.

Most areas in Istria are striking distance from Osp a short distance north of the boarder in Slovenia.
Paklenica National Park, one of the best climbing areas of the country, is just north of Zadar.
The island of Hvar is another great destination. Sport routes on the beach, and deep water soloing. Accessed by ferry from Split.

314 Total Climbs

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Location: Croatia Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Croatia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Zava
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Figa
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Zuna
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Karabore
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Ogledalo
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
Mosoraski
Sport 10 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Fleissige Villi
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Matane ti si car!
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Velebitaski
Sport 11 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Marina
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Gerovit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zava NP of Paklenica > Klanci West > A/13 Zava
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Figa NP of Paklenica > Klanci West > A/6 Popaj
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Zuna NP of Paklenica > Klanci West > A/16 Ljuska
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Karabore NP of Paklenica > Anica kuk > Stup G17-20
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
Ogledalo Marjan
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mosoraski NP of Paklenica > Anica kuk > N Face G1-16
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 10 pitches
Fleissige Villi NP of Paklenica > Klanci West > A/13 Zava
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Matane ti si car! NP of Paklenica > Klanci West > A/13 Zava
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Velebitaski NP of Paklenica > Anica kuk > N Face G1-16
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 11 pitches
Marina NP of Paklenica > Klanci West > A/13 Zava
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gerovit NP of Paklenica > Klanci East > A/7 - Hram
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
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