Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 774 total · 16/month
Shared By: will hanson on Jun 2, 2018

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Classic 5.6 ridge climb! A great intro to Paklenica, with an easy approach, fun climbing, and straightforward walk off. The first three pitches follow a narrow ridge before joining the large formation.

You're going to share this route with other parties (if it's the busy season). Get an early start - you'll stay cooler and you'll beat the crowds (and parking is easier). Plus, there is nothing better than getting back to the base, taking a dip in the pools-waterfalls, and then drinking a beer while watching other parties roast on the ridge in the afternoon.

You can see the whole climb from the gift shop (convenient if you want to know how many parties are on route).


Turn off the main trail right before the second bridge (10 casual minutes from the parking lot). Stay right on the climbers trail until you reach some steel cables - scramble up the cables, follow them around a corner (if you don't like exposure, throw on you harness and clip into the cables). As you turn the corner on cables, you'll see your climb up and right. A short little scramble brings you to the base (there is a plaque) 


60 meter rope. Sport anchors. 8-10 draws would be more than enough. Extendable draws would help keep drag down. If you are comfortable simul climbing, bring more draws and turn the climb into one mega pitch. You could bring trad gear if you wanted to supplement into between bolts. But if you're comfortable at the grade, leave them behind. 


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