Type: Trad, 600 ft, 7 pitches
FA: J. Dornik, J. Gradisar
Page Views: 175 total · 26/month
Shared By: Lotte Meijer on Apr 21, 2019
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Description

A gorgeous and varied route up the Debeli Kuk.

P1: 55m, runout F4b. As they'd say "A 5.5 for a confident 5.10 leader". Protected by sparse bolts, and not many places to place gear. If you want to, you could skip the first 10m by using a fixed rope to the right of it, which leads to a cave with a lot of hard routes. But if you need that you'll be in trouble for P2.
P2: 25m, a 6a+. Absolutely the crux pitch. A 12-15m long fairly 'nasty' vertical flared groove/chimney, somewhat polished in places. Protected by a couple of bolts, and old pieces of webbing. A lot of stemming will get you to easier and completely unprotected ground. Don't forget to use some hold on the left.
P3: 30m, 5b. Straight up from the anchors, then somewhat right. It's again sparsely bolted. A bit protectable. Then a couple moves up another crack which would never be 5b in France, but then again, this is Croatia.
P4. 28m, 6a+, starts up from the anchor though a groove, to a corner. There straight up. A short 6a+ move. and over a lip to a belay.
P5. 30m, 5b, a combination of cracks and slab, pretty pleasant climbing will lead to a belay in a corner higher up. A couple of bolts. When you see one past the groove, pretty far to the right, clip it and move straight up, not around the corner.
P6. 30m, 5c, a lovely pitch. From the belay, don't clip the piton, but the bolt straight up. Then move left with a couple of athletic moves. Up a corner with a couple of bolts, and around the corner left and up to easier ground again.
P7. 30m, 6a, Some slabby climbing in the beginning leads to a tree, and again no more bolts for the remainder of the 5bish climbing. A the top is a solid anchor, and red arrows indicate the way to the abseil route.

Weather:
This SouthWest-facing route is in the sun from the 4th pitch (at least, around around 11AM in April). Supposedly it's mostly shielded from the cold winds that can blow through the valley.

Gear:
It's one of those classic Paklenica 'sport with some gear' routes. The anchors are well bolted, but easier ground is definitely runout. Medium size cams will be useful (camalot 0.5 - 1). Communication is difficult in the last few pitches so radios are recommended. As they seem to be popular amongst the climbers You might have to search a bit for a channel that's not in use yet, or enjoy the "off belays" in Croatian, German of Hungarian.

Descent:
3 abseils will get you to the ground, then some sketchy scree-slipping-and-sliding will get you back to the path, and approx 4 min from the closest bar.

Location

After walking on the paved road from the parking lot, a little bit past the cafe with the espresso and ice cream, you'll soon see a sign pointing to "Diagonalska". If you follow that approx 15m left into the woods, you'll see a tiny metal triangle with the Slovenski (PIPS) on it. That's the start

Protection

Sparse bolts along the route, bolted anchors, bring gear.

Photos

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