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Routes in North Face G1-16

D. Brahm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Kaca T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mosoraski S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Velebitaski S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 1000 ft, 10 pitches
FA: Kambic and Kilic 1957
Page Views: 5,763 total · 58/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on May 13, 2010
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Description

If you climb much harder, there are better routes to do. Nevertheless, this is a CLASSIC! Probably the most climbed route on the face. It is rated 6a+ which translates to 5.10c. The crux pitch is a little polished from all the traffic, but didn't seem harder than 5.9. The first 7 pitches hover between 5.3 and 5.6. Pitches 6 and 7 should be linked, since 7 is super sort. This is plenty of warm up for the crux (pitch 8) witch is a beautiful steep stemming corner. A pitch of 5.8 and one of 5.7 bring you to the top for spectacular views of the Adriatic!

Location

Hike to the base of Anica Kuk, shouldn't be too hard to find, it's the biggest thing in the park. Just right of center of the wall, is a left to right slab/ramp. Look for a giant carabiner! You'll know when you see it. This is the start of the route. There is some easy 3rd class to scramble up to ledges at the start.
To walk of the top, head up the ridge-line to the true summit and follow painted bulls-eyes down and around the NE and eventually back to the base. The route faces mostly North, and is in the shade all morning, It is a good way to avoid the heat of summer. If it is really hot, get off before the afternoon sun gets on it.

Protection

The whole route is bolted. Sometimes the bolts are so far apart it makes route finding difficult. With that said, it might be best to bring a light rack. All anchors are bolted. There seemed to be a string of anchors up the face. Probably to facilitate rescues rather than a rap route. When I asked someone if you could rap the route they laughed and laughed. But it seemed like you could find your way down, probably with 2 ropes if you had to...

Photos

I did this route two summers ago with a friend. I would highly recommend renting the guide book at the guide hut right at the start of the park. We only brought one rope, 12 quickdraws, and some slings. Don't be stupid, bring more gear. Some bolts were over 40ft apart, and yeah, it was easy climbing, but that's not safe. Half way up, maybe around the 6th pitch we hit a set of bolts that were too hard to climb. We were clearly off route. I traversed way left and then straight up a wet chimney using only my slings and rusty pitons I found in the wall to clip in. I went the full length of my rope until I found the next chains, and that's after setting up a new belay station under the wet chimney. We should have gone right. If I had trad gear this would have been much safer. Also bring two ropes, otherwise you really can't repel. Quite possibly deadly.

Overall, it was a fantastic route! The views were beautiful!




Sep 9, 2015
This route is mega classic and the stone is wonderfully featured. Much diverse movement up 10 long pitches. The fixed pro is quite run out for all except the hardcore used to climbing harder grades. Anika Kuk makes for a fine adventure.
Take a set of Camalots to #3 and you may see yourself plugging them in to fill the huge gaps between the fixed hardware....and at least 12-14 draws. Big fun!
Follow the red dots for the walk off. Approach shoes are nice for descent. What a cool place!!


Sep 28, 2017

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