Elevation: 539 ft
GPS: 45.8211, 15.9741
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Shared By: Mark Roth on Jun 1, 2010
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Description

Croatia is a beautiful country with amazing climbing. There are over 60 existing crags, and plenty of rock left still to be developed. There are over a thousand islands in the country which contribute to almost 6000 km of coastline. Needless to say, you will never be far from the beach.

This country is a limestone lovers paradise. There is everything from bouldering, short well bolted sport routes, super long sport and trad routes, to deep water soloing. You can climb year round by either seeking the sun in winter, or finding shade in the summer with a mid day swim to cool off.

Croatia has a rich climbing history dating back to at least the 1930's. In 1931 Emilio Comici climbed Veliki Toranj at Vele Draga on the Istrian Peninsula. Word of this impressive tower and the others of the area spread back to Italy and put Croatian climbing on the map (oops, just found out Istria was part of Italy at that time, until after WWII). 1938 saw the first attempts at climbing Anica Kuk, one of the biggest and best walls in the country. There have been many waves of development throughout the years. Visiting Austrian, German, and Italians as well as local climbers have been putting up new routes for decades. Since the end of the conflicts in the 90's the country has become more and more inviting for traveling climbers. The city of Omis, in order to promote tourism, pays for the bolting!

Croatia wants to join the EU. Supposedly they don't want to turn over their war criminals.. Until they are accepted into the EU, things will remain relatively inexpensive. South East Europe is far more affordable than ANY western European climbing destination.

There is great camping throughout the country, Hotels or apartments are also affordable.

Guide books: Paklenica by Boris Cujic covers only Paklenica
and Croatia by Boris Cujic covers the rest of the country.
the crags on the Istrian Peninsula are also covered in a book called "Climbing without frontiers" Which also covers some crags in Italy and Slovenia. I'll add links to the guide books when I find them...
amazon.co.uk/Croatia-Climbi…

Getting There

Most of the major cities have airports. Split or Zadar are probably the most centrally located, although you could manage from any of the major airports. Most areas are accessible by bus or train. Another option, especially if you will rent a car, is to fly into Italy, Slovenia, or even Germany. I flew into Munich and drove down. There is plenty of climbing and scenery on the way, and it's only a little over 5 hours to the boarder.

Most areas in Istria are striking distance from Osp a short distance north of the boarder in Slovenia.
Paklenica National Park, one of the best climbing areas of the country, is just north of Zadar.
The island of Hvar is another great destination. Sport routes on the beach, and deep water soloing. Accessed by ferry from Split.

263 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Croatia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
Sjeverno rebro
Sport 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Zuna
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Brid sunca
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Ogledalo
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Imberlani
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
Mosoraski
Sport 10 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Hidrogliser
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 3
Domzalski
Sport 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Velebitaski
Sport 11 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Marina
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Sara
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 4
Slovenski (PIPS)
Trad 7 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Kaca
Trad 10 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Water Song
Sport 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Left Stalker
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sjeverno rebro NP of Paklenica > Veliki Čuk > N Face
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 5 pitches
Zuna NP of Paklenica > Klanci West > A/16 Ljuska
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Brid sunca Hvar Island > … > Freestanding Tower > W side of the tower
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ogledalo Marjan
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Imberlani Omiš > Babina Bara
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mosoraski NP of Paklenica > Anica kuk > N Face G1-16
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 10 pitches
Hidrogliser NP of Paklenica > Klanci East > A/12 Hidrogliser
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Domzalski NP of Paklenica > Anica kuk > Stup G17-20
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport 4 pitches
Velebitaski NP of Paklenica > Anica kuk > N Face G1-16
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 11 pitches
Marina NP of Paklenica > Klanci West > A/13 Zava
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sara Marjan
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Slovenski (PIPS) NP of Paklenica > Debeli Kuk
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 7 pitches
Kaca NP of Paklenica > Anica kuk > N Face G1-16
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 10 pitches
Water Song NP of Paklenica > Veliki Čuk > H/2 - N W Face
 4
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 6 pitches
Left Stalker Hvar Island > … > Freestanding Tower > N Side of the tower
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
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