Kaca

A long and wandering adventure route up the NW face of Anica Kuk. The first few pitches are easy 5th class, and the rest are exciting and really enjoyable in all kinds of ways. This route has it all - slab climbing, lie backing, chimneying, crack climbing, and sharp crimps to name a few. There are arêtes, flakes, small roofs, and thin pillars to climb along the way as well. A water runoff path runs through 2 traversing pitches towards the top, but long cords exist at multiple points to aid through it if it has rained recently.

Take the topo's and pictures with a grain of salt, the route wanders all over the face. It doesn't seem like it gets a lot of traffic. None of the holds were polished, I had to do a bit of gardening along the way in some spots, and we didn't see anybody else on the route - even on a busy Saturday during a holiday. Route finding and anchor building will take up a bit of time. The route isn't always clear, sometimes there aren't any bolts or pitons in sight. Also, in some spots there are other routes 15-20 feet next to you - keep this in mind to stay on route.

You'll see a sign on the way to Mosoraski that says "Kaca - 6a" on the right. Follow the worn path to the base of the wall, and you'll find a plaque in the rock that also says "Kaca". Hike off the top to the north, following the marked trail back to the base.

There are a few pitons and bolts on every pitch, and half of the belay stations are bolted, or perhaps we were just that far off route that I couldn't find the proper belay stations. A single set of cams 0.2-3, 12 runners, and a single 70m rope was sufficient for us. Use runners on everything, the rock can be sharp as a knife in spots from the water channels, especially on the last pitch.