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Routes in North Face G1-16

D. Brahm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Kaca T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mosoraski S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velebitaski S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 1000 ft, 13 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 47 total · 10/month
Shared By: Paul Rosenberg on May 22, 2018
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Description

considered to be a classic, i found it lacking.  one hard squeeze chimney pitch (7th pitch) is preceded and followed by significantly easier climbing, a lot of which is runout... although not difficult.  great to be on the top of anica kuk, but i would consider other routes prior to doing this one.

Location

plenty of markings to find the route.  look for the memorial plaque and the route starts maybe 30-35 meters to the right in a bit of an alcove.

Protection

mostly bolts. you can use a few cams, and other trad gear, especially as directionals for the follower; but overall when needed, the climbing was pretty easy.

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Todd Fertig
Redondo Beach, CA
Todd Fertig   Redondo Beach, CA
A few fun pitches but mostly scrambling up 5.4 terrain with extremely spaced bolts. Bring some cams to avoid certain death and protect the crux pitch above the bolts. Also, like most of the ratings in Paklenica, 5.9 is WAY sandbag. Go with Mosoraski instead. Jun 14, 2018

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