Continue with Facebook
The Show Must Go On
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in North Face G1-16
|
D. Brahm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Kaca T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Kamasutra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Mosoraski S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Show Must Go On, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Velebitaski S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 743 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Vicki Schwantes on Nov 4, 2019 |
| Admins: |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·Your Star Rating:
Description
Fun 10 pitches of climbing. I found it more challenging being less familiar with limestone, but you won't find polish here! Probably only worth linking pitches 1 and 2, otherwise too much drag.
P1 - 110 ft - Traverse right to a dihedral. Do not go straight up until you enter the dihedral, this is where you find the most difficult moves of the pitch. Few more bolts to an anchor. 10+
P2 - 90 ft - Straight up, veer to the left up higher, then right to the anchor under the overhang. If you're careful with rope drag, pitches 1 and 2 are reasonable to link. 10-
P3 - 100ft - First crux. Fun moves through the overhang, good holds and crack for your hands and feet, this is the pumpiest part. Then move left for a few bolts on a fun techy face and up to the anchor. 11b
P4 - 100ft - Up left and over a bulge, tricky, then back right to an anchor at the base of a groove. 10d
P5 - 100ft - Easy groove that widens to a chimney with an airy step across to the right at the top. Carry on to the right to an anchor at a good ledge. 10a
P6 - 100ft - Head up the left side of the overhang to a large loose block (scary). Don't go straight up on the block, carry on left to an easier section to head up. One more overhanging section to a large spike and then a mantle to the anchor. There's a good hold up there! 5.11a.
P7 - 100ft - Traverse left and up into a dihedral, go up and then aim right to an anchor at a good ledge. There is another anchor to the left that you may or may not see, but we used the obvious one to the right and it worked well for the next pitch. 10b
P8 - 120 ft - Another crux. Move left up the easy groove, then up the vertical face with good holds and big moves. Hardest part is the final move to the right to gain the big groove above (no feet). Then work your way up the groove. I did some squeeze chimney technique, but sure someone can find a more elegant way. 11a
P9 - 200 ft - Broken rock with a few 5.10 moves. Watch for bolts and follow them to an anchor.
P10 - Carry on to the top and find a spot where you could un-rope and scramble to the top. This is where you would want a few cams for sure. I used a .75 and .5 for an anchor.
Head up right to the summit, admire the Adriatic, and you'll find the trail leading down.
P1 - 110 ft - Traverse right to a dihedral. Do not go straight up until you enter the dihedral, this is where you find the most difficult moves of the pitch. Few more bolts to an anchor. 10+
P2 - 90 ft - Straight up, veer to the left up higher, then right to the anchor under the overhang. If you're careful with rope drag, pitches 1 and 2 are reasonable to link. 10-
P3 - 100ft - First crux. Fun moves through the overhang, good holds and crack for your hands and feet, this is the pumpiest part. Then move left for a few bolts on a fun techy face and up to the anchor. 11b
P4 - 100ft - Up left and over a bulge, tricky, then back right to an anchor at the base of a groove. 10d
P5 - 100ft - Easy groove that widens to a chimney with an airy step across to the right at the top. Carry on to the right to an anchor at a good ledge. 10a
P6 - 100ft - Head up the left side of the overhang to a large loose block (scary). Don't go straight up on the block, carry on left to an easier section to head up. One more overhanging section to a large spike and then a mantle to the anchor. There's a good hold up there! 5.11a.
P7 - 100ft - Traverse left and up into a dihedral, go up and then aim right to an anchor at a good ledge. There is another anchor to the left that you may or may not see, but we used the obvious one to the right and it worked well for the next pitch. 10b
P8 - 120 ft - Another crux. Move left up the easy groove, then up the vertical face with good holds and big moves. Hardest part is the final move to the right to gain the big groove above (no feet). Then work your way up the groove. I did some squeeze chimney technique, but sure someone can find a more elegant way. 11a
P9 - 200 ft - Broken rock with a few 5.10 moves. Watch for bolts and follow them to an anchor.
P10 - Carry on to the top and find a spot where you could un-rope and scramble to the top. This is where you would want a few cams for sure. I used a .75 and .5 for an anchor.
Head up right to the summit, admire the Adriatic, and you'll find the trail leading down.
Location
Hike up to the north sector, pass a tower of rock at the base, hike up the left side of that tower and back right to the base. There is a tree trunk with old green cord right at the start.
Protection
~15 Quick draws. It's pretty well bolted. 60 meter rope sufficient. We used a few cams, anywhere you might use them is easy climbing. We had 0.5 to #2. I recall placing the #1, my partner used the #2, and I used the 0.5 and 075 for an anchor at the very top, but you could probably figure out something without the cams. All bolted anchors except the last pitch. Walk off the top.
0 Comments