Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Stup G17-20

Karabore S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leva tržiška S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 360 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,271 total · 22/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Mar 19, 2010
Admins:

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the more popular moderates to the top of Stup.  It has a wide range of styles, including chimneys, stems, steep pockets, and a full pitch of face climbing at the end.  Well bolted, with an easy approach and descent.

To find it, follow the trail to Stup, then go right around the base of the apron and up to a little alcove with a tree.  There is a nameplate for this climb, so you can't get too lost!

P1: From the nameplate, angle a bit left up a slab to a high first bolts.  Figure this out from the ground as there are other routes quite close to the left and right.  From the first bolt, pull on surprisingly steep but juggy moves for 15', then gain the large groove / chimney that ascends for hundreds of feet.  After 3-4 bolts, things get confusing as there are bolts all over.  Stay in the groove.  Find a decent anchor station after 120'.

P2. Start with some chimney and stemming up the main crack system, then 50' of very easy climbing, and then the crux.  3 closely spaced bolts protect the steep crux with holds on the left and right side of the crack.  Belay just above in a super cool water "pod" with an anchor station.

P3. Hop out of the pod and head slightly right to the first and second bolt, then do a cool finger traverse hard right back to the main crack system.  Easy terrain to the top.  You can also go straight up the face for the this route, at a bit harder grade.

Two single-rope raps get you to the ground.  A 60m will JUST barely make it.

Protection

All three pitches are well bolted and have good belay stations with fixed anchors

Photos

oretro
 
oretro  
 
To echo the comment posted for Mosoraski, route-finding can be a challenge. Several routes on this part of Stup are extremely close to one another, and since this route is the easiest in its group, you may find yourself climbing a bolt line that is much harder than expected. Sep 25, 2016

More About Karabore

Printer-Friendly