All Locations > New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Grotto > Gilligan's Island (a.…

The Pitmaster

Name: The Pitmaster
Rating: 3.3

5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Gilligan's Island (a.k.a. The Alcove)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ectoplasm S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Hanging by a Thread S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Larcombe's Lament (aka Dog Bite at Diablo) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Medieval Homewrecker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Out of Body Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pitmaster, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Skipper Too, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slap Happy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Threading the Needle S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
GPS:	35.8055, -106.14426
FA:	Ernest Martinez, Linus Raschke, Will Ochsner, Nov 2025
Page Views:	282 total · 30/month
Shared By:	E M on Nov 10, 2025
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo Details

The BLM Taos Field Office implemented a Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for routes within its management area. The Diablo walls included in this plan are The Shack, Winter Wall, Sun Devil Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx. The final document can be found online: shorturl.at/FYn4f

Description

Start below a handcrack on the right side of the panel. Its best to skip the first bolt or stick clip the second bolt so the belayer is not pinned below the overhang. But there is a low first bolt if you are uncomfortable or do not have a stick clip.

Venture up through solid rock using a nice mixture of jugs, crimps, pockets, sidepulls, and the occasional jam. The short crux consists of navigating a section through and above a finger crack.

Once over the bulge, the difficulty drops as you cruise through lower angle terrain towards the chains.

Location

Located in the pit/depression that is in between Middle Earth and The Alcove. Climbs the solid panel of rock that is skiers left as you approach the pit. Access the top of the mesa (above the Grotto right) by either walking through the Grotto and up a trail that passes behind the climb "Tenable", or by scrambling up the gully that leads to the cave (walking towards Woogies/Leper Messiah and moving up and right). Once at the top of the pit, you can descend down to the right via a loose 3rd/4th class scramble. You can also sneak into the base of the pit by traversing in from Middle Earth (below Elvish Way).