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Routes in Gilligan's Island (a.k.a. The Alcove)

Ectoplasm S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exit ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Larcombe's Lament (aka Dog Bite at Diablo) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
See You in Hell S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Skipper Too, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Matthew Lawry
Page Views: 311 total · 3/month
Shared By: MattL on Sep 6, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb through jugs on the gently overhanging arete past the first 4 bolts. After clipping the 4th bolt, crank through some small crimps and pinch the arete to gain access to bigger holds (crux). Keep it together as you move up a lieback corner with bad feet. Cruise past the last couple of bolts to the anchors.

Location

HBAT starts about 50 feet down in a large depression. Some easy third/fourth class terrain leads down into the depression from the southwest side.

Protection

Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. Hopefully soon I'll add some quicklinks to the anchors. There is a wedged block at bolt 3 which is somewhat questionable. I spent a couple hours trying to get it loose with a prybar, but with no success. With freezing and thawing in the next couple of winters it might work itself loose.

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