Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kisiel, Newell
Page Views: 670 total · 5/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on May 7, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This climb is a north facing route that offers some fine Diablo moderate trad climbing that is usually free from crowds. It is a good choice on a hot day. Start up a moderate off width in a left facing dihedral and continue to some wide hands to hands out the top with dependable gear placements all of the way up. Bolted anchors were eventually put on this route because we were getting tired of having to jump or down climb off of the island.


This is the only trad route on the north side, and it is directly to the right of and shares anchors with "Slap Happy" which is a sport route. The north side is also found around the corner right from "Dog Bite at Diablo" which is referred to in some guide books as "Larcombe's Lament", which is a snaked route.


Double set of Camalots from #1 to #4, some runners and quick draws, a 2 bolt anchor which might need some new sling or chains for lowering.


Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
Is this the same as the 5.8 route that is called "No Name Crack" by Jackson (2006:153), Beverly (2006:230), and Bradshaw ( losalamos.com/diablo/Alcove… )? May 8, 2008
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
Chris, That is a correct observation of misinformation in a publication. May 14, 2008
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
This crack seemed easy for 5.8: its published rating; but may be on the hard side of 5.6, especially for those who haven't climbed cracks. The suggested double set of camalots is too much to carry up here for a 40' climb for all but the newest leaders. Because I don't have anything to add to it, I'll stay out of the discussion about the name (or lack thereof...) of this crack.

The anchor appeared to have chains and be just fine for rappelling- however, I downclimbed the next crack system to the west instead (easy 5th), so I could be misremembering. Nov 28, 2009