The Dungeon, aka Lower Petefish Slabs

This is a nice crag that gets fatter throughout the winter, eventually forming a contiguous slab in the small amphitheater it occupies. Several distinct lines in the WI3-4 range are available, all roughly 30-40 meters tall. Anchor on trees for the far left side, else plan to build ice anchors. The short pillar or curtain higher up could be included in a second pitch.

Descend from trees (left) or v-thread. It may be possible to walk on/off the left side also.

Note there is some ambiguity with the naming of this climb vs. Upper Petefish Slabs a ways up the road. Whereas this is an attractive ice flow in the depths of the gorge, the other seems barely worth a stop despite much easier access.

WARNING: In 2020 there was a fatal accident here when the upper pillar collapsed and struck a climber near the base of the climb. It's probably best to avoid this route on days with extreme temperature swings and/or if the upper pillar looks over-ripe, as it is not well supported by the underlying slab.

This route can be seen briefly from US Hwy 550 near the Engineer Pass turnoff 3 miles south of Ouray. Looking upstream, it should be obvious near the bottom of the gorge on the west side.

2/3 mile up the highway (south) from the Engineer Pass turnoff is a prominent corner which is usually plowed enough to park off the highway. Descend a steep, open snow/talus slope (possible avalanche danger!) due north to a flattish area of timber. Continue north along the western edge of the flat until directly opposite the ice. Descend northwest along a ridge with fixed ropes and on down the ice/rock slab to the creek. Cross an ice bridge or Tyrolean the fixed line to reach the slope below the climb.

Ice screws and a v-threader. A 70+ meter single works best for cragging.