Type: Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,422 total · 19/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Jan 2, 2008
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Blue Condition is a nice variation to the second pitch of Kennedy’s Gully. It basically consists of 2 pitches of steeper ice. Approach as for Kennedy’s Gully; i.e. hike back down towards Ouray from the Engineer Pass parking area for a few hundred feet until another gully is on your right. Climb the gully to the base of the ice. A short pitch of WI 3 or so will serve as a starter. Next, slog up the short snow slop above the 1st pitch to reach a small amphitheater that forms the start of the 2nd pitch of Kennedy’s Gully. To your right should be the start of Blue Condition.

Blue Condition is about 100 meters long. Maybe the best approach would be to split it into 2 pitches. Climb up a ways to get past the first curtain and look for a belay, perhaps on the right. Climb a second pitch to a tree at the top of the ice, or continue up into the woods above. Rappel from trees and V-threads. This route should be in for most of the winter. Enjoy.


Take 2 ropes, a selection of ice screws, and maybe some rock gear if the ice is thin.