Mountain Project Logo

Routes in US Highway 550

Bear Creek Falls T WI4-5
Blue Condition WI5
Bride's Veil aka Skyrocket WI5
Cascade Falls WI4
Ephemeral Cortex WI5 M7
Gravity's Rainbow T WI5 M3
Ha Dov WI4+ M7-8
Horsetail Falls T WI4
Kennedy's Gully T WI4
Oak Creek Falls WI5
Over The Rainbow WI5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,370 total, 20/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Jan 2, 2008
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Blue Condition is a nice variation to the second pitch of Kennedy’s Gully. It basically consists of 2 pitches of steeper ice. Approach as for Kennedy’s Gully; i.e. hike back down towards Ouray from the Engineer Pass parking area for a few hundred feet until another gully is on your right. Climb the gully to the base of the ice. A short pitch of WI 3 or so will serve as a starter. Next, slog up the short snow slop above the 1st pitch to reach a small amphitheater that forms the start of the 2nd pitch of Kennedy’s Gully. To your right should be the start of Blue Condition.

Blue Condition is about 100 meters long. Maybe the best approach would be to split it into 2 pitches. Climb up a ways to get past the first curtain and look for a belay, perhaps on the right. Climb a second pitch to a tree at the top of the ice, or continue up into the woods above. Rappel from trees and V-threads. This route should be in for most of the winter. Enjoy.

Protection

Take 2 ropes, a selection of ice screws, and maybe some rock gear if the ice is thin.
You can just barely reach the deck in 1 rappel from the tree at top of the route with a pair of 70s. Feb 25, 2008
Bryan Gilmore
New England
 
Bryan Gilmore   New England
 
Excellent variation to P1 of Blue Condition. Simply veer left at the obvious chim./gully and follow small pillar, chimney and thin ice up and back right to a great belay on spacious ledge behind pillar. Probably 70m to the belay expect thought provoking but never desperate climbing. Bring some screws (stubbies) and a few sm/med cams. Don't expect too much good gear though. P2 follow good thick ice to the top. Feb 8, 2008