Type: Trad, Ice, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: a chipmunk
Page Views: 12,116 total · 45/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 13, 2002
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a classic moderate. Despite this being technically much easier than it looks, your back may ache from being bent over on the middle section.

Make sure the snow conditions are stable. Drive up (south) on US Hwy 550 from Ouray to the Bear Creek bridge. There is a 15 minute descent to the base. The route is east-facing. It is in the sun from 9a-12pm.

P1. The 1st pitch (crux) is 140 feet long and can be 3+-5 depending on the line. The easiest line is on the left. Belay to the side perhaps on rock gear.

P2. The 2nd pitch is low angle WI2 which keeps you bent over.

P3. There is a short 3rd pitch that can be made to base of last ice curtain. Use a tree belay.

P4. The last pitch is WI3ish to a tree belay.

We rappelled 160 feet and then walked off left to base of climb. This has a nice position.

Per Jack Barker: you can walk off the top.

Protection Suggest change

Screws, pins or rock gear for the 1st belay if you don't want to be in the line of fire. Screws for the rest.