Over The Rainbow
Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||859 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Julian Smith on Jan 1, 2010|
|Admins:||Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionOTR is located in a small gully system to the right of Gravitys Rainbow. It is a 2-pitch climb that could make a nice alternative if the crowds on Gravitys Rainbow are too much. By itself, I think it is a worthy objective, too.
The first pitch is a 30-meter curtain with 2-steps that goes at about WI-4. Above the first pitch, a short snow slog will lead to the second pitch, which is a 30-meter pillar that goes at the lower end of the WI-5 range.
The two pitches are completely differently in character; the first pitch has the same exposure as Gravitys Rainbow, so it is somewhat sun-baked. The second pitch faces to the west, so it does not get as much sun, and the ice quality is much better.
At the top of the second pitch, wander over a short section of lower angled ice to a tree with some slings.
Rappel from the tree at the top of the second pitch. Then wander down the snow slope between the first and second pitch and back to some trees that are located skiers left. Either rappel from the trees or continue to slog down even further to the left.
To reach the route, hike up the same road as for Gravitys Rainbow. Just past where you would head uphill to Gravitys Rainbow, look for the entrance to the gully that would eventually lead up to the base of the first pitch. The approach, the slope separating the first and second pitch, and the descent could be prone to a slide; so be sure to check the avalanche conditions and plan accordingly. Floatation definitely helps if there is any significant amount of snow cover.