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Routes in US Highway 550

Type: Mixed, Ice, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Allen & Chris Wright, January 2015
Page Views: 398 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Wright on Aug 8, 2015
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A memorable position, engaging movement and an ephemeral drip ought to make for a worthwhile outing whenever it comes in again. The climbing is undoubtedly going to be harder the drier the route is as the first pitch relies not only on the drip but also on some ice down low, but in the right conditions, it yields two pitches of sustained, technical, and at times quite steep climbing on natural holds in a beautiful amphitheater next to Bear Creek Falls. The name means The Bear, in Hebrew, in memory of our friend Eitan Green - a friend to many in the San Juans - who had also eyed up the wall, and who we hope would have loved it.

P1. Start on ice to reach the first bolt, then climb right and up to gain a shallow corner. At the top of the corner, head left to gain the ice and a belay on a large ledge (M7-8 WI4+, 100').

P2. Step down and left, then up off the ledge and through a series of corners and overlaps to the top (M7, 120').

Location

The route is dead center of the wall to the right of Bear Creek Falls. There are bolts where P2 ends at the top of the cliff, though you'll probably want to anchor off the guardrail to get to them. Two raps with a 70m rope reach the base of the route.

Protection

Bolts and a screw or two.

Photos

Chris Wright  
 
I would love to hear about it if anyone repeats this route, so if you do it lemme know! Jan 1, 2016

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