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Union Pacific
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)
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1000' of Fun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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1200' of more Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Blockbuster. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cat Walk. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cat's Me-ow., The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chad, Brad, & Brock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Comedy of Errors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Curiosity Killed The Cat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Curiosity Killed the Rat T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Diagon Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall Not T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Gordian Knot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Hollow Men, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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IME T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knights-Errant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lotto Balls S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ms.Taken T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Necropolis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pegasus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Perhaps Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Planetary Alignment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rat Catcher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rat in the Hat T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rat Trap T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Reptilian Curiosity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Sprogg's Day Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Team 500 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Top Hat on the Rat. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1- |
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Tread Lightly. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tres Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Union Pacific S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Wilting Flower, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Xerophyte 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zenith T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ziggurat 5.11 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 308 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Stephan Callas on Jun 18, 2022 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Description
I've read about a couple people climbing this route thinking it was Lotto Balls (which is what we did) so I decided to make a route on MP. Apparently to get to Lotto Balls you need to go into the gorge a little bit further, didn’t see it but also wasn’t look too hard.
Very fun climb. The only 'anchor’ I saw was a single bolt with a locking carabiner, was not stoked on that, but at least the bolt was in good condition. Apparently after the ledge the route continues up another slab to actual anchors.
First bolt is at maybe 20'-30', a little runout but pretty easy so it didn’t really matter, good warmup run. There is a railroad spike near the first bolt, followed by maybe 3 or 4 more bolts, didn't see any spots for a cam placement. Stays shady until about 9/10am in the late spring.
Location
Head towards Three Finger Canyon (the location on MP is spot on). At the mouth of the canyon there is an obvious gorge hikers right (see photos). Union Pacific is on the left side of the gorge (west side), right at the corner of the gorge and three finger canyon. Once you're in the gorge and facing the slab (you should be looking west) the route is on the very left side of the slab.
This is the beginning of the route and the mouth of Three Finger Canyon (38.8575728, -110.4644692).
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