Type: Trad, 870 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross Sir Chris Bonington (Var Leads) Oct 9th 2007
Page Views: 8,178 total · 60/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Starts up the slab above and to the left(South)of the entrance to Three Fingers Canyon. About a 3 minute walk from ones truck.A good adventure route with fine situations.

(P1. Climb the slab to a slanting crack up to the right At one point step up out of the indefinite crack and up a slab to a good ledge and double anchors. 190'5.6
(P2.Move belay along the ledge for about 100' to a bolt anchor below the big groove. Climb corner and slab into the main groove(good pro in the groove)Climb the groove then exit via the right wall up and around the corner.Easy traverse right ,then up short crack and back left to double anchors on top of the protruding horn.160'5.7.
(P3 High step into easy open groove and follow to double anchors. 150' 5.4/5
(P4.From belay move directly left and climb into the obvious groove above. Follow groove on its right edge past a pro bolt up to double anchors on a good ledge.170'5.9-R
(P5. Up slab on the right then move back up to the left and follow grooves to the summit cairn (register)and double anchors. (Rap anchors of the route Gordian Knot).200'5.4.

Descent:-One can Rap down the steep Gordian Knot ,but much easier to walk up the slabs south for about 200' to find double anchors on the left edge above the route "Come Up Pence". Three Raps to the ground.

Location

Starts on the left(south) side of Three Fingers Canyon. The climb goes diagonally right up the slab towards the skyline arete.

Protection

Cams from 1/4" to 3.5 Friend. Stoppers. Slings Two 60m ropes
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9
"Knights Errant":-Webster's Dictionary of the English Language.....a mounted knight who traveled in search of chivalrous adventures! Chris does not use his title on climbs...and to say the least he is far from being a stuffy British Knight. It was my insistence to help illustrate the name of the climb "Knights Errant" Oct 13, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Sounds like, "once a Knight is enough". Ha ha.
Cheers! Oct 15, 2007
Stephen Carlos Rydalch
Golden, CO
  5.8
Stephen Carlos Rydalch   Golden, CO
  5.8
Notes from the 2nd ascent: 10/3/2009

What a great climb! The second pitch of this route is unforgettable, easily among my favorites in the swell. Highly recommended:

P1 - Follow the easiest line to the large ledge that is about 200 feet off the ground. There is a right leaning crack roughly 100 feet up that you'll want to gain, and that is also the first real protection. Easy 5.5 climbing to the first pro, 5.6 after that.

From the P1 belay bolts walk (literally) 100 feet right along the ledge to a single pro bolt. This is your belay for p2.

P2 - Follow Paul's description into the gully. Your goal is to climb above the large block, and then to traverse right under the horn. After passing underneath the horn, follow a short crack to a belay anchor on the horn. There is a lot of good natural protection. Extra double-length runners are helpful to manage rope drag.

p3 - straightforward, easy 5.4 climbing.

P4 - we deviated from the original route here on accident. Paul's description "From belay move directly left and climb into the obvious groove above" is literal. DO NOT climb into the dirty groove directly above the belay, instead take the less intuitive line to the immediate left of the belay and into the groove that follows. Attempting to climb the groove straight above the belay results in an unprotected traverse across the face before reaching the next belay bolts.

p5 - straightforward, easy 5.4 climbing.

We took a single standard rack of nuts and cams up to a #3 C4. We also took a red and yellow c3, which were used on the first pitch. Small nuts or tricams would suffice as well.

This route is a classic! A must do if you are near 3 fingers. Oct 5, 2009
Pretty bloody fun route. The second pitch is awesome with the pitches above a little less desirable. From here on in I'm just going to do Bonnington routes as that old bugger has an eye for a line. Nice work Paul, I've been having some good adventures down on your slabs. Nov 27, 2009
We had fun making the 5th ascent. The adventure level on this route felt higher than popular Red Rock climbs at the grade. You can't rappel the route after P1.

A few other words of wisdom:
  • Two days after an October rain is not long enough for the sand to dry back into sandstone.
  • Be prepared to start each pitch with a runout on moderate but sandy or breakable rock.
  • Wandering up P2 to the horn belay is a 5.7 adventure in itself.
  • As noted above, P4 starts up the steep wall out left from the belay.
  • The Comeuppance rappels would be tough to find in the dark, allow enough time to scout around for each of the three anchors.
  • After 3 double-rope rappels, there remains some scrambling to reach the ground -- easy but best done in daylight.
Oct 14, 2010
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
 
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
 
The first two pitches are fantastic! The start of the 4th pitch is kind of a sketchy ledge fall situation. I broke off a large hold and bailed. The climbing could be harder now without the hold. I recommend you climb the first two pitches, bring some bail biners, then go solo 1000ft of fun for a well rounded day. May 27, 2013
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9
Good effort Greg on these routes.. The forth pitch is a bit out there near its top..but you are missing the true ascent.!!!! Jul 18, 2013
Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
Broseph L   Salt Lake City, UT
A few points.

-The rap route is labeled as COME-UP-PANCE on mountain project.

-The 4th pitch is bad. Especially if you follow the beta image--sticking to the right after the bolt. I would've stuck to the line directly above the anchors, it looked a lot easier. Going to the face on the left is a sketchy deck/factor 2 fall, with the bolt halfway up the pitch being almost literally your only pro the entire pitch. I agree with previous posters, the second pitch is amazing-definitely a classic, but bail after that.

-I saw a lot of the rap anchors tied in a "American Death Triangle" fashion. Mar 20, 2017
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9
Agree 4th pitch is committing..I guess you did not climb it ... Friends of mine (Rydalch ) went straight up from P3 as you suggested and found it scary and unprotected ..see comments... Not sure correct on American Death Triangle rap offs ..usually bolts tied off individually? ... bye the way what are the number of Americans that have met their death? Mar 22, 2017
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
We backed off after pitch 3, which means downclimbing the traversing 3rd pitch and rapping the bottom 2. The start of pitch 4 does not lend itself to downclimbing and the view from the belay is somewhat deceptive, as it appears you're launching off into a steep and sustained headwall with no pro. I didn't think the risk of a ledge fall with a complicated descent warranted going up. During the descent of pitch 3 it became apparent that there is a low-angle groove that is concealed from the belay. You only have to make it as far as a white horn to find the groove, better than it appeared. Nonetheless, this is one occasion where a bolt is probably warranted. Apr 26, 2018
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9
DDriver. Yes moving across left on pitch 4 is committing and more of an adventure, perhaps not for the faint-hearted. The groove you mentioned on P3 I think is our description of the ascent. Apr 27, 2018