Type: Trad, 870 ft (264 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross Sir Chris Bonington (Var Leads) Oct 9th 2007
Page Views: 8,795 total · 56/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

Starts up the slab above and to the left(South)of the entrance to Three Fingers Canyon. About a 3 minute walk from ones truck.A good adventure route with fine situations.

(P1. Climb the slab to a slanting crack up to the right At one point step up out of the indefinite crack and up a slab to a good ledge and double anchors. 190'5.6
(P2.Move belay along the ledge for about 100' to a bolt anchor below the big groove. Climb corner and slab into the main groove(good pro in the groove)Climb the groove then exit via the right wall up and around the corner.Easy traverse right ,then up short crack and back left to double anchors on top of the protruding horn.160'5.7.
(P3 High step into easy open groove and follow to double anchors. 150' 5.4/5
(P4.From belay move directly left and climb into the obvious groove above. Follow groove on its right edge past a pro bolt up to double anchors on a good ledge.170'5.9-R
(P5. Up slab on the right then move back up to the left and follow grooves to the summit cairn (register)and double anchors. (Rap anchors of the route Gordian Knot).200'5.4.

Descent:-One can Rap down the steep Gordian Knot ,but much easier to walk up the slabs south for about 200' to find double anchors on the left edge above the route "Come Up Pence". Three Raps to the ground.

Location

Starts on the left(south) side of Three Fingers Canyon. The climb goes diagonally right up the slab towards the skyline arete.

Protection

Cams from 1/4" to 3.5 Friend. Stoppers. Slings Two 60m ropes

Photos