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Routes in O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)

Xerophyte 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zenith T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
1000' of Fun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
1200' of more Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blockbuster. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cat Walk. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat's Me-ow., The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comedy of Errors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Curiosity Killed The Cat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Curiosity Killed the Rat T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fall Not T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Gordian Knot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Hollow Men, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
IME T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights-Errant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotto Balls S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ms.Taken T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Necropolis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pegasus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perhaps Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Planetary Alignment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rat Catcher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Trap T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat in the Hat T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reptilian Curiosity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sprogg's Day Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Team 500 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Top Hat on the Rat. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1-
Tread Lightly. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wilting Flower, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ziggurat 5.11 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 1200 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross, Patrick Moe (Var Leads) 7th Nov/ 2009
Page Views: 11,694 total, 119/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

AKA: Needle Ridge, Starts just right of 1000' of Fun and climbs the long ridge. This is one of the few climbs in this area that one can walk off instead of rapping. However from the top of pitch 5 one could make a short rap to link onto the top anchors of 1000' of Fun and take five raps down that route.1200' is a sister route to 1000' of Fun with a little more commitment but even better views and situations

P1)Follow the easy rounded slab for about 60' to a bolt ,move down to the left to a lower slab then up a open groove passed two more bolts to double anchors.185'5.5/6R.

P2)From the belay climb passed a bolt and move up to the right to the upper ramp. Two more bolts are passed to double anchors.5.6/7R 200'

P3)The angle eases . Follow pleasant slab to double anchors 5.3R

P4)Continue passed a block in the groove and moderate climbing on excellent rock to double anchors.5.4R 200'

P5) Straight up keeping to the left edge of a fine open slab to double anchors.(One will see about 40' down to the left the anchors at the top of 1000' of Fun)5.5R 200'

P6) Climb across to the right from the anchors ,the up to a single bolt ,passed this up onto the ridge and to the summit anchors. 5.6/7 200'. Register in small cairn just above the belay.

Descent: Scramble 60' to junction with the "Walk in the Park Gully" Walk down this (30 mins) to the foot of the ridge.

Location

Three Fingers Canyon. Drive 6.1 miles from the I.70 gate entrance to faint road on right ,then about two miles (four wheel)to the Three Finger Canyon

Protection

A few Cams .5 to #2 Camalots. Slings .One 60m rope if Gully descent is taken or Two 60m ropes if one raps down 1000'of Fun
Let's just all agree that calling this the sister route to 1000 feet of fun with a "little" more commitment is some kind of Brutish (sic) understatement.
Agree with the above comments or not, I hope anyone attempting this route reads
them. And pitch 1, if you even have to think about it, carrying 1 rope or 2,
yes maybe go home now. Oct 17, 2016
I really enjoyed this climb, character builder. Chossy run out fun. We only brought one rope and did the walk off, not too bad. May 18, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
On the FA we used 60m ropes. Well this is slab climbing the world over be it be Whitehorse ledge in NH or the Glacier Point Apron slabs in Yosemite they are runout,that's what makes slab climbing interesting as the grade is often not that high.I guess more so in Utah and Colorado crack climbing and sport with lots of protection is more the norm.So until you get more familiar with this type of climbing it will feel a little freaky . Jun 3, 2015
Did this route last week as a stepping stone for my fave partner's multi-pitch experience. We had done 1000' previously. We moved rather quickly as the bluebird day fell into the pattern of T-storms so prevalent this spring.
P1. Kinda a joke runout to the first bolt passing several nice stances on the way. If one is concerned, I think you could stick clip from the descent gully or even belay from there. Not worth getting injured over. Reasonable bolt pro to the belay after that
P2 Bolt near the move to the right ramp. Couple of placements available after that. My 60m BARELY made the anchors pitches 2-5, just enough rope to put A. on belay off the anchor without tying in (yet)
P3 No reliable gear, no bolts
P4 No reliable gear, no bolts
P5 Good gear (cams in holes )
P6 The bolt (out to right per description) is about 180' from the belay. Placed a cam or 2 and a bomber #1 tricam before the bolt . Good hand sized placement just before the bolt as I followed the ridgeline. I wasn`t even close to reaching the belay with my 60m. My 70 m rope might have made it. Easy scramble for P7 (A. doesn't solo) with a good gear belay on 'top'.

My humble impression: An adventure route the needs a bit more love from the FA team. I super appreciate the work involved in establishing new routes, but the poor rock quality in combo with limited gear freaked A. a bit. Thanks! Jun 3, 2015
HmmmmÂ…I should check back more than every four years. Thought this was a forum for commenting on climbs, not climbers. At any rate, still consider this a way over-rated and dangerous climb. And oh yeah, the Swell pretty much IS my "sanitized home crag". Jan 30, 2014
DallinH
Utah
DallinH   Utah
Stay in Colorado then. May 1, 2012
RUN OUT. Pitches 5&6 were GREAT. The rest was run out (3 placements in about 200 feet) Don't Slip. Rated well but sketch as far as placements/gear goes... My belayer started cussing at me when sometime either p3 or p4 I finally found a placement (that wasn't crap) 60-70 feet above the him. Screw that. I would rather be on Granite. May 1, 2012
Mike Jungers  
 
Great route. Thanks Mr. Ross for the belay bolts, and thanks for all the bolts you could have placed but didn't. This route is NOT for you if you're a 50'/ 8 bolt 5.7 leader, but will reward climbers who just put their heads down and go. Highly recommended if you like easy climbing and don't mind slinging three sandcastles on a 200' pitch. Great views from the summit and don't miss the rock art on the hike in. Mar 15, 2011
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Mark one Boissal! Quite entertaining that this was Wayne's first post on the proj! He signed up to post this!Welcome to the community Mr Hare! May 29, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Sounds like someone's mangina has accumulated quite a bit of sand from all that climbing in the SW desert...
Man up, this is the Swell, not your sanitized home crag.
See here for more of the same type of comments and how they're addressed. May 29, 2010
Was I on the wrong climb?!? All of the rock on this route is just rotten flakes. Might be considered 'excellent rock' if you're used to climbing on paper mache or something. The route has no pleasant characteristics whatsoever, except the view at the top, the camping in the area, and the proximity to Ray's Tavern in Green River. One pitch had no way to protect it at all, others had only make believe protection on rock that would explode if you actually fell on your pro. Or was protected with one piece that was maybe 15 feet below the belay anchor....which would have failed anyway. Several bolts were either loose and/or not even drilled in all the way. Debatable whether the climb or the walk off is more irritating. Don't know why the instructions talk about a 60 meter rope for the rap off. No rap. Don't know why this climb has ANY stars. This is a climb you don't need to do. May 29, 2010