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Routes in O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)

Xerophyte 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zenith T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
1000' of Fun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
1200' of more Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blockbuster. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cat Walk. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat's Me-ow., The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comedy of Errors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Curiosity Killed The Cat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Curiosity Killed the Rat T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fall Not T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Gordian Knot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Hollow Men, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
IME T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights-Errant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotto Balls S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ms.Taken T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Necropolis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pegasus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perhaps Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Planetary Alignment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rat Catcher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Trap T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat in the Hat T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reptilian Curiosity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sprogg's Day Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Team 500 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Top Hat on the Rat. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1-
Tread Lightly. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wilting Flower, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ziggurat 5.11 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 520 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Paul Ross Andy Ross (var leads) Gene Vallee 17th April 2011
Page Views: 861 total, 11/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Apr 23, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The climb is located on a previously unclimbed crag through the Three Finger Canyon on its left side, directly across from the 1000' of Fun formation. Walk through the canyon until past a low angle gully, then follow this on its right side to the foot of the crag about 15 minutes from the entrance. One of the few climbs in the area that can be climbed and rapped down with a single 60m rope.

P1) Start up the slab about 40' left of its lowest point. Climb up through a gap in a small overlap and continue up the slab with some cam protection to a bolt and then past this to double anchors. 150' 5.8

P2) Head up and right to a bolt at 40 'where a tricky move gets you on a rising ledge. Keep traversing right passing a second bolt and mid size cam placements. Make another tricky move getting off the ledge onto a big ramp system which leads to the belay. 170' 5.8+

P3) Move left and climb onto a block, then back right into the corner and a bolt. Long slings helpful on this section. Some great climbing up the corner (good cams) leads to awkward pulling out of the corner(bolt) onto the face. Romp up the face passing another bolt to some belay shrubs well back from the lip. 200' 5.9

Cleaning off a loose block chopped a new trail rope, hence the name of the climb.

Descent: From the top belay, scramble down the terrace to the left until it narrows towards its end. Look left and a small cairn marks rap anchors for a single 60m rope to tree ledges that lead back to the start of the climb.

Location

Located on the left through Three Fingers Canyon . See topo.

Protection

1/2" to 4" cams, set of stoppers ,quickdraws and long slings. One 60m rope.

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