Type: Trad, Aid, 560 ft (170 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross, Paul Gardner
Page Views: 881 total · 4/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Dec 26, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Three Finger Canyon. Eastern Reef Slab Area.Located on the left side of the canyon just 10 mins walk from the parking area at the mouth of the canyon.Go into the canyon and walk up the talus and follow crag botton to an obvious ramp with a hand crack at about 100' up..This route joins The Gordian Knott route at the top of P4 at the Big Ledge .
Note.Many of these Swell routes are sandstone climbs of pure adventure, good rock, bad rock,run outs etc,and not to be confused or compared with the sport type climbs of Indian Creek and Potash Rd. The grades may not appear high but one will usually find plenty of situations that require the climbers full attention . .Like the GK this climb is not a friction slab route .

P1). Climb the ramp/corner passing a nice hand crack at mid height to a good ledge below a roof (Friends 21/2, 31/2 and 11/2, cam belays) 190' 5.8
P2).Awkward move to enter the groove which is followed passing a pro bolt at 40'( a couple of aid moves on this pitch were followed free)Continue up corner to good ledge, cam anchors. 100' 5.9 C1.
P3).Climb the open easy groove to the big ledge . Block belay 80'5.4.(GK joins at this ledge from the groove on the right.) Rap anchors up to the right.
P4) Walk along ledge 200' to the corner (this corner could be used as an independent finish )The FA party followe P5 of GK. Climb slab to left to pine tree ,up short wall to another groove ,the left around the corner . Follow easy groove to top. 180' 5.4.Cam belays.

Rap anchors further up the rim on flat section. FA. Paul Ross , Paul Gardner Alt Leads.April 27th 2004


Two racks of cams from Alians to #4 friends,extras of zero to 11/2 friends. set of stoppers . Extra sling material. 2 60m ropes for rappell.