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Routes in O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)

Xerophyte 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zenith T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
1000' of Fun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
1200' of more Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blockbuster. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cat Walk. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat's Me-ow., The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comedy of Errors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Curiosity Killed The Cat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Curiosity Killed the Rat T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fall Not T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Gordian Knot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Hollow Men, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
IME T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights-Errant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotto Balls S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ms.Taken T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Necropolis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pegasus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perhaps Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Planetary Alignment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rat Catcher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Trap T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat in the Hat T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reptilian Curiosity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sprogg's Day Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Team 500 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Top Hat on the Rat. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1-
Tread Lightly. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wilting Flower, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ziggurat 5.11 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 530 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter, 4/13/04
Page Views: 769 total, 5/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Apr 12, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The Gordian Knot. III 5.9 C1.(5.11) 530'... This route is different to the surrounding slab routes, the climbing is more spire like in nature. Takes a corner system up one of the interior walls of Three Finger Canyon.From the trail head at the mouth of Three Fingers follow the left side of the rock face up round the corner to a steep blank looking wall with 5 bolts that leads to a corner with a thin crack..10 mins walk.

P1) Climb 8' to the first bolt and free and semi aid to the corner.( Parts of bolt ladder were freed 5.10+ a couple very difficult moves remain... Now all free 5.11+).The groove is thin to start ,continue to double anchors. 100'5.9 C1
P2) Follow wide crack to bulge, over bulge then right into corner . Easier climbing above leads to double anchors. 100'5.9.
P3)Straight up nice stemming corner and crack to bolt anchors on the right. 60' 5.7+.
P4) Traverse up a groove on the left to a ledge . A steep friable wall leads into an easy grove to a massive ledge ,block belay. 80' 5.7R (Rap anchors are located about 40' on the edge up to the right).Walk 250' right along the ledge to below the corner.
P5) Do not up the easy looking corner but traverse up the slabs to the left passing a pine tree .Just passed this climb up to another groove , then around the corner to a groove that leads to the summit.A 3.5 cam can be use for an anchor. 190'.5.4........

Descent. The rap anchors are located about 30' above along the rim on a flat section.A 180' rap to the big ledge, then scramble down to anchors above pitch 4 . Continue straight down the route. Paul Ross Layne Potter.. 13/4/04

Protection

Double rack from Alians to 3.5 friends .One #4 and one #5, set of stoppers. Extra webbing.

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