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Routes in O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)

1000' of Fun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
1200' of more Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blockbuster. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cat Walk. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat's Me-ow., The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comedy of Errors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Curiosity Killed The Cat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Curiosity Killed the Rat T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fall Not T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Gordian Knot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Hollow Men, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
IME T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights-Errant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotto Balls S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ms.Taken T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Necropolis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pegasus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perhaps Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Planetary Alignment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rat Catcher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Trap T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat in the Hat T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reptilian Curiosity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sprogg's Day Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Team 500 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Top Hat on the Rat. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1-
Tread Lightly. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wilting Flower, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Xerophyte 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zenith T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ziggurat 5.11 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 1110 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve Rydalch, Paul Ross (var leads) June 13th 2009
Page Views: 4,763 total · 42/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 16, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

5 Opinions

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A fine route with great situations. Starts up the long line of left leaning pot holes.

P1)Climb to a bolt at 25' . Continue past a total of six pro bolts to double anchors. 170'5.9.
P2)Climb steeply up three holes then traverse right passed one bolt to another line of pot holes ,follow this line passed one more bolt to block belays on a large ledge.180'5.7+
P3)Drop down onto the white slab ,climb up to the right and follow easy slab to natural anchors below the steep groove system .Natural belay.200'5.4 no pro.
P4)Enter the groove from the right and follow the left exposed edge with difficulty ..Total of three bolts and some cam placements to ledge and natural belay.180'5.9+.
P5)Scramble up right to a smooth v groove up this at its top a bolt (this bolt was placed on the FA of Raptilian Curiosity that comes up from the open groove down to the left.) this protects a 5.8 move over to the ridge on the right.Contine up easy ground to natural belay.200'5.8.
P6)Easy climbing along the left side of the ridge to junction with the top of 1000'of Fun.180'

Descent.:- Five raps down 1000' of Fun


Drive to the entrance of Three Finger Canyon.The climb is located on the south side (to the left ) on the "1000' Feet Of Fun" formation. Starts about 150' to the right of the very impressive line of Reptilian Curiosity.


Camalots #.4 #.5 #.75#1 #2 #3 Slings,Quick draws. Two 60m ropes.
Dan Monroe
Colorado Springs, CO
Dan Monroe   Colorado Springs, CO
Had a blast on this route. I led pitch 4 which was really exciting! Certainly had to keep my head in the game moving up on small feet while looking straight down a ways on my left side. If you like "heady" leads grab this pitch. Pitch three is a real delight with all the features/edges to use. My partner got that one which he earned after leading pitch one. Nice route guys! May 16, 2010
Alex Wood
Flagstaff, Arizona
Alex Wood   Flagstaff, Arizona
Climbed the first pitch of this route after 1000' of fun. We replaced the anchors atop the first pitch on 3-16-2012. Wish we would have know that it kept going! Mar 26, 2012
Eric Odenthal
Moab, UT
Eric Odenthal   Moab, UT
climbed the first pitch. fun climbing, bolts are in very odd places, wouldn't help much. 40 foot runout to the anchors from the last bolt... wonder if a bolt fell out... most bolts in the area move. should have used 1/2" x 4 RAWL instead. Dec 6, 2012
"most bolts in the area move".
How many bolts and on which routes are you talking about? Thats quite the comment as there are ALOT of bolts down there.
What other routes have you done of the nearly 200 routes?. We only hear of people doing the same old half dozen or so time after time in the whole Reef area.
Could you please report in the comment section of all the routes you have noticed loose bolts to help us and future climbers out.

As far as this route and all routes down there the bolt placements are done on the lead. Its all about where you can stop and put one in and sure sometimes they are in odd places. Have not heard of any bolts falling out so im sure it was just runout to the anchor. Will check it out next time im in 3 Finger.
Lastly, we figured 3/8 x 4" would be fine for slab climbing.

It might be a good idea to carry a spanner/metolius nut tool with hex heads and I will note that on the Slabs home page. Thanks for the heads up. Dec 6, 2012
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Only a forty foot runout did not realized we put the bolts in that close.Actually its sad really that many climbers these days are still insisting on doing one pitch climbs..This is a good example of a route that has SIX pitches.Maybe there is an epidemic going around of acrophobia? Dec 6, 2012
This was my "intro route" at the Reef. The bolts were placed at good stances, obvious choices for ground up drilling. I encountered No loose bolts like a previous posted stated. The 40 foot runout to the chains can be reduced to 30 feet if you know how to stick cams in holes. Great route guys! Cheers Feb 16, 2015
Wenatchee, WA
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
You can continue to the top/summit by climbing easy 5th. This will allow you to scramble 4th class safely back to the base. Single rope and rack exactly as described will be plenty. This climb is on the RIGHT side of the main canyon, but Left side of the formation. It starts heading up the red band with hueco type features. You can see the first pitch bolts and anchors from the approach, which is less than 10 minutes. It gets full sun. Oct 23, 2016
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
To DrApnea Bit puzzled about your exit description .. This climb finishes at the top of 1000' of Fun ... Can see no way a 5th class scramble from here...The only route on this formation that allows a easy scramble off is from the top of the 5.7 1200' of more Fun and Cat Wal' of Fun. However your visual description does fit the fist pitch ?? Just had another look at your comment . I am now sure what you climbed was the two pitch climb way to the left of this formation named Cat Walk . 5.7 (some folk think it a little harder?) as this climb does have a 4th class scramble down from the finish. If you had done Curiosity Killed the Cat (six pitches) you would certainly remember the 4th 5.9+ pitch ..see photos ..and like the other ascents be impressed and given it 3 stars not one.. perhaps correct for Cat Walk.. Also check photos of P1 Cat walk.. easy to see anchors and huecos . Cheers Oct 26, 2016
Wenatchee, WA
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
I did climb the 6 pitch route described and seen in photos here. I continued up another pitch (#7) past the 1000' of fun achors to reach the true summit of the formation taking the path of least resistance. This allowed us reach the summit, walk to the climbers right, and then scramble down the rocky gully back to the base of the climb, passing a group just starting up 1000' of fun as we finished.
The crux pitch you mentioned (the one after the white slab) was memorable, but wasn't that enjoyable. Gear was not trustworthy and bolts were good but scarce. I led all but P2. I still feel this is a 1 star route IMO but appreciate the time and effort you put into setting this route ground up. Oct 29, 2016
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
DtApnea Well done .. Sorry that unlike previous climbers this climb was not to your liking .Hoping you might have some pics of your # 7 "easy" pitch as several pretty strong climbers have failed to climb this finish ...Just wondering how easy was it ? Cheers Oct 30, 2016
Wenatchee, WA
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
How easy? No pro required, low as I said above. Previous climbers have also said these climbs were not the classic you envisioned so not all prior climbers thought is was amazing either.

I appreciate the time/money/effort put forth to create it. Thank you for doing so. But with that said, poor quality rock isn't for everyone. My rating of this climb reflects it, even if this is the Swell. You need not waste your time defending your lines against everyone that doesn't agree that they are classic. It is not a 4 star or 3 star route IMO. I would say most on in this canyon we saw were probably 1-2 star routes with cool remote vibe and fun summits. But I will wait until I have climbed the others to rate them. My rating is just one opinion. Let people determine what they think of a climb without attacking them and the ratings will settle where they belong.

But to help others out, as was my original intention... Yes you can walk off. I edited the beta photo with details of how in RED. I also posted pictures showing where we were on the summit and the look down the gulley to walk off. We ran into a couple at the base of the formation that had free soloed 1000' of fun and walked off via the same gulley.

Encourage more people to do this climb by doing the walk off next time you are there and confirming it has an easy descent. Others will rate and post relavent info as they desire.
Cheers. Oct 30, 2016
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Thanks for your more detailed information ... Perhaps you are being a little sensitive. !!! . I was just concerned about future "1000' of Fun" climbers (usually not high grade climbers) finding your finish as you indicate a moderate 5th class with no protection . (not worth a grade )I hope you are right ?.If that is the case then great it will stop the chore of rapping this climb which is not easy at best of times ... . With regards to some doubtful rock found on these climbs is sandstone and is all part of the desert experience. If its not to your liking then best you stay away from this area.Most of these Reef climbs are of the adventure type and not to be confused with the one pitch climbs of the Dylan Wall etc. I would not bother reporting to the AAJ as these are but minor climbs and climbers do get there advice from this site. The climbs here get a Classic grade ONLY for this area . This is mentioned in the overall description of the Eastern Reef. Thanks for your photo of the person in the bushes its very informative . I am quite aware of the walk off down a gully as this is used by the climb just right of 1000' of Fun ... "1200' of more Fun" but of course by a different finish Cheers Oct 31, 2016
Wenatchee, WA
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
Relavent pictures uploaded. Banter removed Oct 31, 2016
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Yes its a shame that some climbers have a sense of humor ,however the cat and the dog were not providing information. Bye the way who is that in the bushes? ... I just want you to be completely confident that moderates climbers will agree that your new finish is as you say very low 5th class and comparable in difficulty with the easy "1000' Of Fun" climb... as if the climbers just take one rope as you suggest and do not fancy your easy finish they will have big problems .. Oct 31, 2016
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
Fricking hilarious reading ^^^^^ Thanks for the morning yuks Nov 1, 2016

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