Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ben Folsom Mark Owen solo Dec 2002
Page Views: 33,197 total · 159/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 16, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

1000' of Fun. 1000' II 5.6. Located through Three Finger Canyon. From I-70 entrance drive 6.1 miles to a right turn, take this for 2 miles (4x4) to park at the entrance to Three Finger. 15 minutes walk to the unmistakable white colored angling slab that cuts up to the right through the chocolate rock. An easy fun route that only has a couple of 5.6 moves, the climb where needed is pretty much well protected. A good introduction to the sandstone alps!

Note . On June 17th 2003 Paul Ross and Layne Potter climbed this route not knowing that the route had been soloed both up and down as no rap or belay bolts were in place. So this description of the route is by Ross and Potter. When Ben Folsom and Mark Owen soloed up the climb they assumed they could traverse off and walk down from the summit, when they could not they had to face the gripping down climb.

P1) Easy slab up the massive water-worn groove system to bolt anchors. 200' 5.2
P2) More easy slab. 200' 5.3
P3) More clean pleasant slab to a ledge below the big chimney. 200' 5.3
P4) Do not enter the chimney, but follow huecos up a steep step to the right (5.6), and continue to anchors. 200' 5.6
P5) From anchors move over the delicate slab to the left and climb an unprotected 5.5 slab to easier rock and the summit. 200' 5.5
NOTE... May 15th 2020. According to "Not Hobo Greg", one can continue at 5.5R from the last belay and join the easier climbing at the top of 1200 of Fun , and descend the gully instead of rapping back down the climb ... See his latter posts for his description.  I do not think this has not been confirmed by any other parties so proceed with caution...  
The ascent as described took 2 hours. Descend the route via rappel. Second ascent. Paul Ross, Layne Potter, 17th June 2003.

Protection

Friends #1 to #4 , Two 9mm 200' ropes

Photos