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Routes in O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)

1000' of Fun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
1200' of more Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blockbuster. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cat Walk. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat's Me-ow., The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Comedy of Errors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Curiosity Killed The Cat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Curiosity Killed the Rat T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fall Not T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Gordian Knot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Hollow Men, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
IME T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights-Errant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotto Balls S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ms.Taken T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Necropolis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pegasus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perhaps Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Planetary Alignment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rat Catcher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Trap T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat in the Hat T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reptilian Curiosity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sprogg's Day Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Team 500 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Top Hat on the Rat. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1-
Tread Lightly. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wilting Flower, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Xerophyte 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zenith T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ziggurat 5.11 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ben Folsom Mark Owen solo Dec 2002
Page Views: 28,345 total · 153/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 16, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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1000' of Fun. 1000' II 5.6. Located through Three Finger Canyon. From I-70 entrance drive 6.1 miles to a right turn, take this for 2 miles (4x4) to park at entrance to Three Finger. 15 minutes walk to the unmistakable white colored angling slab that cuts up to the right through the chocolate rock. An easy fun route that only has a couple of 5.6 moves, the climb where needed is pretty much well protected. A good introduction to the sandstone alps!

Note . On June 17th 2003 Paul Ross and Layne Potter climbed this route not knowing that the route had been soloed both up and down as no rap or belay bolts were in place. So this description of the route is by Ross and Potter. When Ben Folsom and Mark Owen soloed up the climb they assumed they could traverse off and walk down from the summit, when they could not they had to face the gripping down climb.

P1) Easy slab up the massive water worn groove system to bolt anchors. 200' 5.2
P2) More easy slab. 200' 5.3
P3) More clean pleasant slab to a ledge below the big chimney. 200' 5.3
P4) Do not enter chimney, but follow huecos up a steep step to the right (5.6), and continue to anchors. 200' 5.6
P5) From anchors move over delicate slab to the left and climb an unprotected 5.5 slab to easier rock and the summit. 200' 5.5

The ascent as described took 2 hours. Descend the route via rappel. Second ascent. Paul Ross, Layne Potter, 17th June 2003.


Friends #1 to #4 , Two 9mm 200' ropes
This was an awesome route. A most do if your in the area. Can't wait to get back their and do others. Apr 15, 2004
The rap is long and tedious due to the very low angle of the climb. We had to re throw our ropes several times on each pitch. May 2, 2005
. To the Rappers ...You must have had fun.. Tip for today don't throw your ropes down low angled slads ,almost impossible take them down as you go... May 3, 2005
What do you use for rap anchors? Are there bolts or do you use natural anchors? Meaning do I need to bring a bunch of webbing? Feb 27, 2006
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
We rapped the top couple and then got tired of dealing with the rope. So we decided to down climb the last couple pitches. And boy was I scared having a 200 pound guy above me. I just keep thinking he was going to fall and take me with him... But it's easy stuff and we made it. Goodtimes! Oct 13, 2006
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Thanks Ben for replacing the rap anchors. Unfortunately these days there are many dick head posers in the climbing community .Wish they would stay at Potash Road where they belong. Nov 18, 2006
mcarizona   Flag
Me and my brother had fun on this route. I'm discouraged to have to remind my peers of leave no trace ethics. The modern day petroglyphs, pulling a bunch of grass off the big ledge at the top of P3 and a water bottle stuffed in a hueco pretty much shows that there are still "takers" on the planet. Leave it how you found it (obviously). We camped outside the canyon next to that scenic juniper and rock outcropping. I hope that continues to be a preserved, nice spot for other climbers.
Thanks for the bomber anchors. To whom it may concern: go do it! Feb 18, 2007
Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
Thanks for that last message! That campsite by the rocks and juniper is definately the one to use. Please keep it clean so we can have continued access! Camping inside the canyon near the petroglyphs should be discouraged! Last time I showed up at Three Finger Canyon there was a family there and the kids were scratching their names in the rock near the petroglyphs and I just about lost it! Anyway, as climbers, lets pick up after ourselves and others, and try to make as little impact as possible so the area can be preserved for people to enjoy! Mar 20, 2007
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
You mean the European Death Triangle!!! Has any body known of one these triangles to fail (anywhere) it having two well place bolts or bad ones for that matter???Actually we are now planning to put hand rails up all the slab climbs to keep up with the modern trend of ultra ultra safety .We also plan to have a helicopter on stand by for any sprained ankles etc.... The Staff. Nov 1, 2007
western, colorado
EdwardWalker   western, colorado
Dear Paul, Ben and the gang(staff), Cheers for a fun route. It was easy to locate and a fun climb. I found the bolts fine and fearless, infact i found Lance the next morning and returned two of Ben biners' The view from the top was unbelievable. Thanks again and is there a 'kitty' to donate some cash for more rap bolts? Keep it up. E Walker Nov 9, 2007
Greg D
Greg D   Here
The directions to this route are no longer accurate as the "entrance" from I-70 no longer exists. You must drive the highway that heads south from I-70 (i believe it is the next exit west of Green River) for appox 6 miles, then turn right on to a dirt road. Sorry I can't be more specific but the canyon is visible from the highway. A local map showing Three Finger Canyon will be useful.

Found the route to be ok. Lots of 5.0 climbing and a short section of 5.6. My dog did the first pitch on-sight free solo. Then downclimbed it. The thunder in the distance spooked him so he was trying to find me. We did a walk off just east of the route with some 5th class spots. Much faster than rapping but a bit of loose rock. Mar 20, 2008
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
To Greg D. Sorry you could not find the entrance from I.70.. but would like to inform you it still exists,we were there last week 21st March...nothing has changed!!.. Suggest you remove your comment regarding the road. However would be interested in your walk off.... did you continue up from the last pitch of 1000' 0f Fun through some loose looking grooves grooves? PS. If you cannot find the I.70 entrance (,I have yet to hear of anyone else having difficulty), be careful if you venture onto many of the actual climbs other than the very obvious 1000' of fun... glad your dog liked it.. Cheers Mar 26, 2008
Greg D
Greg D   Here
Alright, I stand corrected on the directions. Perhaps the "I-70" entrance does exist and we were just directionaly challenged that day. The only directions we had printed from this page states "from the I-70 entrance" did not give us directions to the "entrance". Since we did not have specifics of where this entrance was all other directions were useless to us. Could someone give specific direction to this entrance from lets say Green River? Does one take an actual I-70 exit or just pull off somewhere? We found a way in afer driving south from I-70 toward Hanksville a few miles. Sounds like there is a better way.

The downclimb is visible in the main photo of this route above. It is the boulder strewn gully just right of the route. After reaching the top of the route I believe I continued up and right (east) a little ways before getting into the gully. Then just took the path of least resistance down encountering some loose rock and a few short 5th class section. If you are not comfortable soloing short sections of 5.4 ish, the raps may be the way to go. Mar 31, 2008
The exit is in a small valley just before the road hits the face of the swell. It's a dirt road that you need to enter from the left lane if coming from the Green River side. It's marked by the lack of an "authorized vehicles only" sign or whatever they use to discourage you from doing U-turns on interstates in Utah. If you hit the rest area at the base of the swell you just missed it. It's hard to see unless you know right where it is. Unfortunately if you miss it there's another 4 or 5 miles of road before you can (illegally) turn around.

That said, you might be better off coming in from the Hanksville road - it's probably less dirt road that way. When coming from I-70, you have to go well past the part of the road that is right next to the swell - first time I went there I was suprised that the road turns quite a ways away from the swell before you get to the junction leading to the route. Mar 31, 2008
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
I was out there the other day and here's my shot at a description of how to get there. About 2 miles past the Hanksville exit going West is a median crossing with the "no unauthorized" sign. There is a pile of boulders in the median just past this crossing. Approximately 100 yards past the boulders is a second median crossing without a sign saying you can't be there. Take this crossing. As John P. stated you'll have to be in the left lane to make the turn. Cross the east bound lanes without getting crushed and it's straight forward from there. Apr 7, 2008
Greg D
Greg D   Here
Thanks Sqwirll, That's sounds pretty simple. Any suggestions of other worthy routes in the area? Apr 11, 2008
Fun Route! Climbed it on April 7th...were planning on climbing it the next day, but we took a look at it right before sunset and decided it would be more interesting and exciting if we climbed it with a full moon. Started around 8:45pm and made it back to camp at 12:30. A little nervewracking looking for anchors in the dark, but it just added to the fun! Apr 15, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.6 R
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.6 R
Like the description says, a good introduction to the area and easy to locate. Great atmosphere, in places almost like a long Scottish gully minus the waterfalls. Though the grade is low, take care: the rock quality is a bit dodgy on P4 & P5 and runners are infrequent. Maybe our rope was short as some of the pitches seemed to be 60 metres + a bit. Oct 16, 2011
Yeah, sometime/somehow in the last few years, I-70 got two miles longer and thus the mile markers changed. Some guidebooks note the mm to locate that dirt exit off the highway. If you look for that mm (and sorry, but I don't know what it is anymore), you'll never find the exit. Just subtract a couple of miles and you'll find it. The road in off Utah Hwy 24 is right at a large sign advertising a pheasant hunting refuge. It's a good road that goes directly to the canyon. Oct 26, 2011
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Will check out the directions next time I am down there.The dirt road that runs along the Reef for about 9 miles starts from I.70 and exits at the Hanksville road can be found on most road maps. Oct 27, 2011
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Re checked directions (11th Nov /2011) on the Eastern Reef Slabs and Walls section and added even more details.We never use the Hunting Ranch entrance mentioned below as this may upset the owners.There are as yet no directions in any rock climbing guide book to the Eastern Reef. Use the detailed directions that are already posted on MP.If you cannot follow these.....suggest you might try to find Potash Road,near Moab. Nov 12, 2011
Alex Wood
Flagstaff, Arizona
Alex Wood   Flagstaff, Arizona
This route was so so. The thing that made it cool was the views and the location. The climbing is, well, really not climbing. There are only two moves in the 5.6 range and the rest is low fifth class. I only placed pro just because it felt weird not doing it. The other group with us didn't place any at all the whole 1000'. Just bring ropes for the raps. It was a little disappointing that the climb didn't top out. Instead, it tops out maybe 200' below what appears to be a summit. Awesome area though!

Anybody know what that sport climb two routes over to the left of 1000' of fun? it has lots of huecos (I guess that is a common thing in the swell) and is around 100ft long. I was trying to find out what it was called but I couldn't find info on it Mar 19, 2012
Alex,… Mar 19, 2012
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
To Alex et all . Strange there is over 200 climbs on the reef yet it seems everyone jumps on the easiest climb ... I guess it makes them feel good to criticize. The title says its a 1000' feet of fun ...thats all it is . Try some of the other climbs and see if you think there is bit more fun more adventure plus difficulty. Ninety five percent of the climbs over 5.8 have yet to have a second ascent..let alone the 5.11 and 12's Bye the way you can top out if you move across right and join the 1200'of Fun climb but it is more difficult... Jul 14, 2012
EckBecK R.
Missoula, MT
EckBecK R.   Missoula, MT
I'm headed down there next week. Just curious if the belay points are chain anchors or should I be bringing my own rap rings and webbing for the descent? Oct 25, 2012
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Always best on any of the Reef climbs to take along some back up webbing. Some of the climbs were put up over nine years ago so original webbing might look a bit old.On many of the more current climbs we have left biners on the rap stations. Nov 3, 2012
Andy Novak
Golden, Co
Andy Novak   Golden, Co
Climbed it on 3/26/13. What a cool climb and place. Webbing is in reasonable shape, but top of 1st and 2nd may need some attention soon. On the descent, allow LOTS of time. As stated above, its annoying to say the least getting the ropes down the lower angle stuff. Apr 5, 2013
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
Great climb! For what its worth I just slung both ropes during the raps and fed them out on the way down. Made life a lot easier and gets rid of the pain of getting the ropes down the low angle slab. May 20, 2013
Alex Wood
Flagstaff, Arizona
Alex Wood   Flagstaff, Arizona

Thanks for the heads up!


I would love to get out and do more of the climbs at the Swell. Sorry for passing judgment so swiftly on this route. This is a neat area and definitely needs more than one day of exploring (that is all we had). Thanks for your feedback! Feb 26, 2014
tom303   Colorado
Most of the webbing on the route was replaced on 3/25/2014. Climbed with Zoe (age 6), her first multipitch. Mar 28, 2014
Sam Felch
Sam Felch   Bozeman
Hi there I was wondering if I could do the raps with 2 60 meter ropes? Apr 22, 2014
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Yes 60m ropes are fine. It is easier to duo rap if you feel ok with that. Apr 23, 2014

Love the Swell for canyoneering - I'm looking forward to climbing there for the first time soon.

Is 1000' of Fun possible with one 70m rope?


-Daniel Oct 12, 2014
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
If you do 1000' of Fun as discribed you will need two ropes to rap as anchors are at least 150' apart, you cannot walk off from the top of the climb.. There are some singe pitch routes in the area but can be quite difficult. Oct 13, 2014
Hobo Greg
My Van
  5.4 R
Hobo Greg   My Van
  5.4 R
Lives up to it's name! You can easily link it with the last bit of 1200' of Fun for summit views, AND you then walk off 20 mins instead of doing five double rope raps! Don't worry about the runouts, you're not gonna fall. Mostly hiking with two short cruxes, three if you do the linkup to 1200'. Mar 3, 2018
Cheyenne, WY
  5.6 R
Wilburn   Cheyenne, WY
  5.6 R
As of 28 April 2018 all the anchors had adequate slings or cord. Apr 30, 2018

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