All Locations > N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Amphitheater

The Limey

Name: The Limey
Rating: 2.3

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Amphitheater

L › R R › L A › Z

	All Tough: No Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Baby's Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Brothers Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Cryptic Trip T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Daddy, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	False Mummy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Good Heavens T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Good Heavens Prow T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Good Heavens variation (a.k.a. Cave variation) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grimy, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Heckfire Left var. T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Holy Moses T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Iguana Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Land of the little people T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Limey, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lost in Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2
	Mummy, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Open Book, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Out of sight out of mind T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Prow (lower pitches), The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Prow Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Prow, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Rattlesnake Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	S. D. Modiano T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Short Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sister Seagull T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Skunk Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Trinidad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Turkey Beard T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches
FA:	Art Williams, Mike Holloway, Bob Mitchell early 1970s?
Page Views:	680 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Ti ck on Oct 3, 2021
Admins:	Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details

fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…

Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.

Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.

NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.

Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

P1. 5.7+ a short 30M lichen covered lower flank with some strangeness, from the ground it seems like up and left is the way but up and right ends up being easier the crack looms over head. Bring your wire brush and cool head. Belay just before the corner overhang.

P2. 5.9 55M the money pitch. Good gear the whole way. Pull the roof and enter the stout corner, relatively sustained 5.8+/5.9 climbing for the first 35ft with a few excellent hand jams and lots of fun stemming. As the corner starts to ease, find a high belay.

P3.
option A. Continue in line with the corner straight up through what looks to be challenging face climbing with little pro (not recommend)

Option B. Continue up and left on very easy ground then eventually finding a left leaning slash offering a good anchor gear. 5.5 60M

P4. 5.4 30m Finish the slash and walk right on the big ledge belay at base of nice looking corner.

P5. 5.8 50M some stronger moves at the start with nice gear eventually tops out to the same location as the prow

You are “in the booty zone”

"Originally they considered calling this "lime drop" because Art fell off on one of the moves"

-Amphitheater Of Linville Gorge Documentary

Location

The original approach says to come from the NC wall but given the current condition of that trail i chose to come from the amp, walk down the gully around the bottom of the prow ramp and climbers left of the prow. It is a little further than it seems and the vertical crack is not super obvious from the ground but is visible.