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Routes in Amphitheater

Cryptic Trip T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Daddy, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good Heavens T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Holy Moses T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mummy, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Open Book, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of sight out of mind T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Prow, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S. D. Modiano T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkey Beard T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jed Williamson, Mark Calkins, Andy Damp - 1970
Page Views: 35,510 total, 261/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


178 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Traverse out onto the main corner after passing below the start of Open Book.
Pitch 1: Belay and climb the first easy pitch for 50m or so. There is a nice airy belay ledge.
Pitch 2: Wander up the expansive slab to a ledge under a headwall.
Pitch 3: Strike up the left slanting diehdral at the left edge of the ledge. Stay out on the lower face and utilize great big jugs. Head left for the arete and enjoy the phenominal exposure. Belay on the next big ledge.
Pitch 4: Traverse some goofy stuff across a gap and then head up into the vegetation to a nice ledge where it is obvious people have camped. Belay, and then scramble up the chimney to the top of the wall.

Great route for the grade with great position.

Protection

No fixed anchors. Standard Table Rock rack. Walk down the Amphitheatre to get to the base and climb back out to the approach trail.

Photos

Nick Metzger
Chattanooga, TN
  5.4
Nick Metzger   Chattanooga, TN
  5.4
Defiantly have to agree that this is the best way out of the Amphitheater. P1 and P2 have great pro and are good little climbs. P3 is where the money is at on this climb. Great exposure, great pro, and great climbing!

As for the existing trail my partner and I had no problem finding it.

Once at the top of the climb exit through a small gully between two rock formations. Continue along the edge of the cliff. Then climb up(scramble up) a rock on your left. You will then see a campfire ring. From this follow the trail. It will get tight(bushy), but the trail is quite obvious. About 5 mins of walking and you will be back at the top of the descent trail leading into the Amphitheater. Sep 6, 2016
Russ Moore
Littleton, CO
  5.4 PG13
Russ Moore   Littleton, CO
  5.4 PG13
While climbing the Daddy on 10/17/15 I watched a large microwave sized(?) block fall from what appeared to be around the top of the route and hurdle itself down into the gorge. The fall line and impact areas were around to the left of the climbing route. Not sure what triggered it. Oct 20, 2015
As is sometimes said, the approach is probably the crux.

On the first two pitches, I placed one piece on each. The second really needs no pro at all, but I put a piece in just to feel honest.

The third pitch is as massively exposed as accounts put it, but the holds and placements are plentiful and great. Good fun. Jun 29, 2015
Curtis Baird
  5.4
Curtis Baird  
  5.4
This route is golden. The exposer on pitch 3 is unreal! Had trouble finding the way out though. Traversed left at the top of pitch 3 then climbed another 20 or so feet until we could scramble. May 12, 2015
Found a cam at the top of pitch 2, describe it for me, come to AVL, and you'll get it back. Mar 7, 2015
b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
  5.4
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
  5.4
We mistakenly missed the normal P2 belay and then tried to link P1 and P2 (the P3 roof alcove belay) with a 60m rope. That does NOT work, plus the rope drag is severe even with the use of several 60cm slings. Aug 25, 2014
Pjm
Pjm  
Yep, another first on the prow! On site trad lead this past weekend, my first! 70m rope links p1 and 2, but beware rope drag. Love p3! No problem finding our way out. Sep 16, 2013
H20, we had no trouble find the trail out. Once you top out on the prow I remember going right and scrambiling through a dark little hallway/chimney then just stay hikers right on rock slabs and hike maybe 5 mins along the rim of the ampitheatre. This brings you right back to the start of the descent trail into the ampitheatre. Feb 23, 2013
j10c3y25
Columbia, SC
j10c3y25   Columbia, SC
Really easy climbing, lots of places for gear. Kinda fun but nothing great until the last pitch. Stepping out around the corner is the only WOW moment on this climb. In a related matter, my buddy somehow lost one vibram spyridon left shoe on this route. He thinks it was on the last belay ledge, if anyone finds it could you please pm me lol, thanks. Nov 25, 2012
H2O
H2O  
The climb was good no issues. My only gripe would be getting out. We got to the top and started on a "trail" for about 5 min and then nothing. We beat the bush, rhododendrons, thorns, more bushes for about 1 3/4 of an hour before hitting the main trail at 6:45 pm, losing light rapidly. Not good. Very disappointed considering how often this place gets climbed and no trails out, at the very least suggestions. I'm assuming if one heads south or right (as you come off the Prow) towards the gully we climbed into we would hit that trail. Oct 2, 2012
Rick Carpenter
Kenai, Alaska
 
Rick Carpenter   Kenai, Alaska
 
Fun route to climb by headlamp at night. May 28, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Fantastic Climb! Five fun and a excellent exit if you want to try the Mummy, Daddy, Prow linkup in a day! Long pitches and some excellent views! Fairly easy slab climbing in the beginning leads to some fun traverse'e face climbing on huge holds. Beware on the last pitch it is difficult to communicate with your belayer due to the traverse around the corner.

Fun!! Mar 13, 2012
TKHouse  
The best way out of the amphitheater! I recommend climbing pitch two on the slabs to the right instead of on the far left if you're in the mood for some more spice. Pro is there on occasion, no moves harder then 5.4.

Had another party simul-climbing this to my left as I led it, no problems whatsoever. Oct 25, 2011
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
For a longer version, you can keep going down the descent gully until you are about level with the start of the Daddy, then scramble over to the base of the Prow. This will give you two more pitches of climbing, depending on how you break it up. Dec 4, 2010