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Routes in Amphitheater
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All Tough: No Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Baby's Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Brothers Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Cryptic Trip T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Daddy, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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False Mummy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Good Heavens T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Good Heavens Prow T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Good Heavens variation (a.k.a. Cave variation) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grimy, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heckfire Left var. T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Holy Moses T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Iguana Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Land of the little people T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Limey, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost in Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 |
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Mummy, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Open Book, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Out of sight out of mind T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prow (lower pitches), The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prow Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prow, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rattlesnake Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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S. D. Modiano T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Short Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sister Seagull T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Skunk Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trinidad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Turkey Beard T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Howard and Rodger ? |
| Page Views: | 512 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Ti ck on Sep 8, 2021 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This is a frequently overlooked area in the amp and my description is possibly different from the first ascent party but there is lovely easy and moderate climbing to be had on this buttress behind the mummy buttress.
P1. 5.7+ Its quite sandbagged a good one for your 5.9 leader. Also dirty, sometimes wet and loose but some thought provoking movement none the less. Move up out of the rap gully on easy terrain until you can get established in the corner, pick gear placements wisely. Go left around the block and then roof at the end there are lots of good wet hand jams. Alternatively you can go right up a steeper crack which had a piece of super old gear in it. This is likely 10+ Continue up to one of the two pine trees and belay.
P2. 5.6 This can be linked with p3. From the pines move up and left weird movement with a leg jam and jugs gets you into a very easy section of loose blocks and moss, continue up and left towards a very nice looking corner on top of the giant disc/roof thing hanging out of the wall. Belay in this area or just before.
P3. 5.7 pull up into the corner over the disc and straight up following the cracks and on into easy face climbing. Gain a blocky ledge and belay in the green corner. Alternatively you can also belay in the corner to the right of here with a small pine. Either corner or crack climbs nicely.
P4. 5.6 it is easy to bail off right on a number of ledges. Ascend the green corner and up into the “s” crack on top of the “s” crack step left and pull up onto the face on lovely face holds. Head to the top of the buttress. Belay on a small pine or nest of small cams at the top.
Turn around and walk 20ish feet to the rim trail, right to the rap gully, left to exit the amp.
Please note this is all trad anchors the “X’s” in the topo are suggested anchor spots
Location
If you are coming down the rap gully on the skiier’s right hand side you will see a large left facing corner this is it.
There is an alternative 5.4 R approach pich ramp which would enable you to bypass p1 but the traversing nature could put both leader and followers in a not so great fall zone. To locate this start keep on the left side of the gully hike in and find the ledge that is nearly level with the pines at the top of p1
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