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The Limey

5.9, Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Art Williams, Mike Holloway, Bob Mitchell early 1970s?
N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Amphitheater
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Description

P1. 5.7+ a short 30M lichen covered lower flank with some strangeness, from the ground it seems like up and left is the way but up and right ends up being easier the crack looms over head. Bring your wire brush and cool head. Belay just before the corner overhang.

P2. 5.9 55M the money pitch. Good gear the whole way. Pull the roof and enter the stout corner, relatively sustained 5.8+/5.9 climbing for the first 35ft with a few excellent hand jams and lots of fun stemming. As the corner starts to ease, find a high belay.

P3.
option A. Continue in line with the corner straight up through what looks to be challenging face climbing with little pro (not recommend)

Option B. Continue up and left on very easy ground then eventually finding a left leaning slash offering a good anchor gear. 5.5 60M 

P4. 5.4 30m Finish the slash and walk right on the big ledge belay at base of nice looking corner. 

P5. 5.8 50M some stronger moves at the start with nice gear eventually tops out to the same location as the prow


You are “in the booty zone”


"Originally they considered calling this "lime drop" because Art fell off on one of the moves"

-Amphitheater Of Linville Gorge Documentary 

Location

The original approach says to come from the NC wall but given the current condition of that trail i chose to come from the amp, walk down the gully around the bottom of the prow ramp and climbers left of the prow. It is a little further than it seems and the vertical crack is not super obvious from the ground but is visible. 

Protection

Standard rack extra .3 size and number 3 was helpful

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1973 - Roger leading "The Limey" - pitch 2
[Hide Photo] 1973 - Roger leading "The Limey" - pitch 2
Leadering with a slung chock stone. Thanks Gil for the photo
[Hide Photo] Leadering with a slung chock stone. Thanks Gil for the photo
Topo on one of Mike N's photos
[Hide Photo] Topo on one of Mike N's photos
Climber finishing p2
[Hide Photo] Climber finishing p2
Looking up p1. P2 corner up top
[Hide Photo] Looking up p1. P2 corner up top
Looking up the money pitch
[Hide Photo] Looking up the money pitch