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Good Heavens variation (a.k.a. Cave variation)
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Amphitheater
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All Tough: No Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Baby's Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Brothers Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Cryptic Trip T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Daddy, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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False Mummy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Good Heavens T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Good Heavens Prow T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Good Heavens variation (a.k.a. Cave variation) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grimy, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heckfire Left var. T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Holy Moses T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Iguana Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Land of the little people T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Limey, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost in Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 |
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Mummy, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Open Book, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Out of sight out of mind T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prow (lower pitches), The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prow Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prow, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rattlesnake Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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S. D. Modiano T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Short Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sister Seagull T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Skunk Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trinidad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Turkey Beard T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 540 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Kyle Harris on Oct 24, 2021 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
A great variation to the 4th pitch of Good Heavens. Climbs up into a chimney, to a cave that has a awesome veiw through a hole in the rock. Then takes any number of ways through easy ledges to deposit you on the final pitch of Good Heavens or the large traverse ledge of The Daddy.
Location
From the top of the 3rd pitch of Good Heavens take the ever narrowing tree ledge to the left until you get into a corner. Belay here so there is no rope drag in the cave.
P1- climb up the chimney with a large tree. After fighting your way around the tree get into the slot and go straight in towards the opening until you're in a room like feature. Belay here or climb up to the top to belay. (5.7+)
P2- climb up to the left then to the right to gain the big tree ledge then walk right to rejoin with good Heavens. Or head directly to the left across the tree ledges until you are just below the 3rd pitch of The Daddy
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