Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 701 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Ti ck on Jul 18, 2021 · Updates |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
An old route and info was very vague but this seems to be the only 5.6 path through the area.
This is a way more funnerer way out of the amp than the prow, and it is a little shorter if you solo to the first tree ledge you could top it out in one pitch with a 60m rope...
P1. Many will solo this, you have two options, stay out on the face (right) at 5.6 or hop into the chimney/corner at 5.3 this is the easier and more secure way. Gain the small tree ledge
P2. 5.5 Pull up onto the next ledge and get some #1or #2 gear, aim left into the chimney (not visible in topo photo) at the top of the chimney you'll arrive at another tree ledge, a good belay spot and fairly short pitch
P3. 5.6 Enter the right faceing corner with excellent gear options, save a #2 for the end of this corner where it hits a small roof, this is the crux of the climb, pull the roof on the right side and continue up this face on glory jugs aiming up and left to the dirt and rock corner you finish at nearly the same spot as the prow.
This route offers shade in the late afternoon while the prow is baking in the sun.
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