Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA: Thomas Kelley and Ralph Fickel (1985)
Page Views: 1,108 total · 40/month
Shared By: Adam Gallimore on Sep 5, 2021
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

My favorite route in the amphitheater with solid pro, a splitter crack, tons of variety, and some spice at the end. This is worth climbing just for "The Hole" exit!! A true adventure route.

P1: Starts on Brothers Start (5.7+) but when the crack cuts left, belay from here. P2: Traverse hard left for 30-40 ft to a mini ledge and belay. 

P3 (10a): The meat of the climb. Follow the amazing dihedral with some of the best rock and movement in the entire amphitheater. You can place solid gear the entire way with good stances along the way. When the crack peters out start moving up and left to the roof on ok holds. This gets pretty runout but all the 'hard' moves are over (PG-13 section). Take care on the traverse as there are lots of loose flakes. Once you reach the roof, you can place some medium size cams. Pull the roof on awkward holds and good feet and belay on the mini ledge. 

You can belay higher on the face, but the rope drag got pretty bad at this point. I recommend belaying right after pulling the roof. 

P4: Follow the slabby face to a large ledge. This is very dirty but there are good holds and jams the entire way. Belay from a horizontal after pulling onto the ledge. 

Descent: locate "The Hole" and prepare to crawl through it!! Make sure to remove your pack and record your follower as they struggle. This exit makes the climb totally worth doing, and with some traffic the last pitch will be just as good as the rest of the climb. 

Overall, this is one of the more sustained climbs I've done in the amp and the crack is pretty pumpy. Every pitch is high-quality and there is good gear when you need it. 

Location Suggest change

Locate Brothers Start (see route description) but instead of continuing to the large belay ledge for the Mummy, belay when the crack ends. Traverse hard left and follow the splitter dihedral.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack with doubles in medium size cams. The crack takes some stoppers and tricams. I placed a few offset nuts as well