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Routes in Amphitheater
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All Tough: No Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Baby's Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Brothers Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Cryptic Trip T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Daddy, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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False Mummy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Good Heavens T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Good Heavens Prow T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Good Heavens variation (a.k.a. Cave variation) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grimy, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heckfire Left var. T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Holy Moses T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Iguana Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Land of the little people T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Limey, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost in Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 |
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Mummy, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Open Book, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Out of sight out of mind T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prow (lower pitches), The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prow Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prow, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rattlesnake Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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S. D. Modiano T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Short Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sister Seagull T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Skunk Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trinidad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Turkey Beard T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Thomas Kelley and Ralph Fickel (1985) |
| Page Views: | 1,108 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Gallimore on Sep 5, 2021 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
My favorite route in the amphitheater with solid pro, a splitter crack, tons of variety, and some spice at the end. This is worth climbing just for "The Hole" exit!! A true adventure route.
P1: Starts on Brothers Start (5.7+) but when the crack cuts left, belay from here. P2: Traverse hard left for 30-40 ft to a mini ledge and belay.
P3 (10a): The meat of the climb. Follow the amazing dihedral with some of the best rock and movement in the entire amphitheater. You can place solid gear the entire way with good stances along the way. When the crack peters out start moving up and left to the roof on ok holds. This gets pretty runout but all the 'hard' moves are over (PG-13 section). Take care on the traverse as there are lots of loose flakes. Once you reach the roof, you can place some medium size cams. Pull the roof on awkward holds and good feet and belay on the mini ledge.
You can belay higher on the face, but the rope drag got pretty bad at this point. I recommend belaying right after pulling the roof.
P4: Follow the slabby face to a large ledge. This is very dirty but there are good holds and jams the entire way. Belay from a horizontal after pulling onto the ledge.
Descent: locate "The Hole" and prepare to crawl through it!! Make sure to remove your pack and record your follower as they struggle. This exit makes the climb totally worth doing, and with some traffic the last pitch will be just as good as the rest of the climb.
Overall, this is one of the more sustained climbs I've done in the amp and the crack is pretty pumpy. Every pitch is high-quality and there is good gear when you need it.
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