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Routes in Amphitheater

Cryptic Trip T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Daddy, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good Heavens T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Holy Moses T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mummy, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Open Book, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of sight out of mind T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Prow, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S. D. Modiano T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkey Beard T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Mitchell and Bob Gillespie - 1970
Page Views: 7,546 total · 85/month
Shared By: Rob Rives on Sep 21, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A rarely traveled Linville gem. This is a great alternative to the Mummy and Daddy on busy weekends, as long as you can deal with all the lichen on the second half of the route. The first two pitches are gold!

P1 - Climb the very obvious dihedral to a small tree (100 ft)
P2 - Continue up the dihedral, eventually busting around to the right of the huge roof. Gear belay above roof (100 ft)
P3 - Climb to the next ledge, belay in trees (50 ft)
P4 - Climb the face directly off of the ledge, then drift through the left-leaning dihedral to another large ledge (90 ft)
P5 - Climb/scramble to the top (50-150 ft)

Location

Hike about five minutes down past the base of the Daddy to a very obvious, long, right-arching dihedral.

Protection

All belays and pro are natural or gear, no bolts here!

Photos

Brian Abram
Celo, NC
  5.5
Brian Abram   Celo, NC
  5.5
This route is as good as Daddy and much better than Prow. The classic linkup of Mummy Daddy Prow should include this one in addition to or instead of The Prow Sep 6, 2017
Kyle Harris
Nashville TN
Kyle Harris   Nashville TN
youtu.be/5j01DBDg9MQ Nov 9, 2016
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
Instead of taking the corner all the way up to roof, it is fun to saunter out right to the arete then up it to the roof. Belay at lip to avoid those pesky communication issues. Jun 20, 2016
This route is not bad. Certainly a quiet, secluded area of the buttress. The swing around the arete at the top pf P2 was cool. (with a sweet gear belay at one of the best spots ever! What a view!)

This would be a greet instructional/first lead. It's really really easy. Only a couple spots that are 5.5. By a couple I mean literally, two. The rest is 5.3 or 5.4. But good rock quality. Jun 11, 2016
Curtis Baird
  5.5
Curtis Baird  
  5.5
This is a nice route! Just as good as the Daddy for sure. Be careful with communication between the top of the first pitch and top of the second. If there is much wind it is almost impossible to here your partner because of the roof. We used rope tugging communication. Didn't do the chimney variation. The beginning of pitch 5 felt more like 5.5 than 5.3. A quality route overall. Dec 15, 2015
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
 
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
 
There is a large loose block on the second pitch just before you traverse out right and under the roof, just a heads up. I used a #4 Camalot several times but the route protects fine without one. Overall a great mellow romp up an impressive arching corning. The P4 variation sounds like the best way to finish the route and to add a degree of difficulty and keep things interesting after the first few pitches. We didn't bring a guidebook so missed out on the P4 variation, next time we'll finish this way for sure.

Note: I found a belay device while on route. PM me if it belongs to you and I'll make sure you get it back. Apr 28, 2014
Jacob Cioffoletti
Boone, NC
Jacob Cioffoletti   Boone, NC
This route was in an accident on 11/24/10. A climbing group of three decided to combine pitches two and three. They lost communication between the leader and the other two. Climbed it the other day in horrible 30 mph winds communication was limited and the use of radios were essential for commands. Nov 28, 2010
Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
 
There's a really cool variation that leads you into the heart of the cliff! Somewhere around P3 (above the roof, IIRC) head a little left toward a chimney that has a small tree growing out of it. Move into and up this chimney a short distance, then suck in your gut and dive straight back, into the cliff. (Well, don't dive - you just chimney sideways.) I've heard this called 5.8, but it's just awkward. Like most chimneys, it's secure. After a short distance (<50ft?) you'll end up in a neat room. Climb up and out the top, and wander to the top of the wall (easy climbing once you finish the squeeze).

Have fun, and have an adventure! Nov 11, 2010