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Out of the Blue (and into the Black)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in Main Cliff
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Absence of Light, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Balancing Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beer-Bellied Black Mountain Bushwhackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bikes-N-Ditches T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Beans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Black Bear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Clouds S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Dreams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Jesus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Mamba T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Moon Rising T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Opus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Plague T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Plum T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Climbmax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Collage a Trois T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crows Fly Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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D 'n' B T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dirty Dreams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Divided Sky S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Double D Cracks, Left Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double D Cracks, Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dreamy honeymoon- link up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eight Lives Left T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Ejection Seat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Expanding Horizons T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Fear is the Mind Killer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fight For Your Mind (aka Go Left) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Frijoles negros T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grizzly T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Honeymoon Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hotstepper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Invisibilia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jengarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jet Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Kingdom Heritage T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Krakatoa T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Log Skidder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost Nation's Finest T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Meadowlark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nyx T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Out of the Blue (and into the Black) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pet Badger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Possum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rainshadow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shadow Spirit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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SOHCAHTOA T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Soliloquy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Some Say the Crux is the Hardest Part S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Soul Journey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Spice is Life, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sweet Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Threat Level Midnight T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Traffic Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Traffic Jam Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wild Black T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.92158, -71.74202 |
| FA: | Ira O'Meara, Caleb Fischer |
| Page Views: | 848 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Ira OMC on Aug 16, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
Description
Climbs the right side of the Black Clouds slab, then continues up the cool, thin corner to a overhanging wall above. Techy crack and corner climbing leads to steep sporty climbing.
Pitch 1: Locate a black bolt to the right of the obvious bolted line of Black Clouds. Climb the slab and thin corner crack (small cams) then make thin moves up to a ledge, 10d. PG. This pitch can be skipped by walking up the gully to the right. It is also one of the few pitches at Black that is easy to set up a toprope.
Pitch 2: the money pitch. From the 2 bolt anchor on the ledge, move left and get established in the cracks on the left side of the corner. A #2 protects the moves off the ledge. Clip a bolt, back-clean the #2, and climb the thin cracks and corner for 35 feet. (The first crux is pretty low, so protect early and often.) At its top, move right an reach to clip a bolt. Step back down and engage in steep, gymnastic climbing (second crux) to reach a jug right. Clip another bolt then perform another big move to another great edge. Continue up more easily to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.
Location
Starts at the tounge of rock that comes down to the trail between Sweet Life area and Jengarete. The slab is steeper and harder than it looks! This is the route on the right. Pitch 2 starts at a ledge about 70 feet up- one could bypass the first pitch and hike up the steep gully on the right to gain that ledge.
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