Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Dylan Thomas, Tim Sluiter, May 2019
Page Views: 140 total · 56/month
Shared By: Dylan Thomas on May 10, 2019
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

A moderate route with great exposure, fun movement, and a spicy finish.

Climb the right facing corner through a small overlap to a stance. Place gear, then climb through a second overlap using footholds on the face. Surmount the roof and continue up the slab on easy terrain finding protection in the cracks. Move slightly left towards a large pine tree at the top of the cliff and step up onto a ledge with a small right facing corner. Make a final spicy move (5.6, slightly runout), then paw your way up moss and roots to the pine tree. 

We would describe the protection as PG due to the possibility of poor quality rock on the route. Black Bear is brand new and we removed several large deathblocks while cleaning it. As with any route at Black Mountain, be very aware of rock quality as you climb. 

Location

On the wall opposite Black Dreams and Dirty Dreams, locate the obvious dihedral uphill and right from Black Beans.

Protection

Gear. Doubles of #2, #1, #0.4 and a singular #3 if building a gear anchor at the top. We rapped off the tree a couple times; it is seemingly solid, but the gear anchor is ideal.

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