All Locations > Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Black Mountain > Main Cliff

Black Bear

Name: Black Bear
Rating: 1.7

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Main Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Absence of Light, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Balancing Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Beer-Bellied Black Mountain Bushwhackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Bikes-N-Ditches T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black Beans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Black Bear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Clouds S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Dreams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Jesus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Black Mamba T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Black Moon Rising T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Black Opus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Black Plague T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black Plum T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Climbmax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Collage a Trois T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crows Fly Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	D 'n' B T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dirty Dreams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Divided Sky S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Double D Cracks, Left Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Double D Cracks, Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dreamy honeymoon- link up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Eight Lives Left T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Ejection Seat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Expanding Horizons T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Fear is the Mind Killer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fight For Your Mind (aka Go Left) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Frijoles negros T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grizzly T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Honeymoon Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hotstepper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Invisibilia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Jengarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jet Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Kingdom Heritage T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Krakatoa T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Log Skidder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lost Nation's Finest T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Meadowlark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Nyx T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Out of the Blue (and into the Black) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pet Badger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Possum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rainshadow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Shadow Spirit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	SOHCAHTOA T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Soliloquy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Some Say the Crux is the Hardest Part S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Soul Journey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Spice is Life, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Sweet Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Threat Level Midnight T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Traffic Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Traffic Jam Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unnamed Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Wild Black T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 55 ft (17 m)
GPS:	44.92158, -71.74202
FA:	Dylan Thomas, Tim Sluiter, May 2019
Page Views:	1,012 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Dylan Thomas on May 10, 2019
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

A moderate route with great exposure, fun movement, and a spicy finish.

Climb the right facing corner through a small overlap to a stance. Place gear, then climb through a second overlap using footholds on the face. Surmount the roof and continue up the slab on easy terrain finding protection in the cracks. Move slightly left towards a large pine tree at the top of the cliff and step up onto a ledge with a small right facing corner. Make a final spicy move (5.6, slightly runout), then paw your way up moss and roots to the pine tree.

We would describe the protection as PG due to the possibility of poor quality rock on the route. Black Bear is brand new and we removed several large deathblocks while cleaning it. As with any route at Black Mountain, be very aware of rock quality as you climb.

Location

On the wall opposite Black Dreams and Dirty Dreams, locate the obvious dihedral uphill and right from Black Beans.

Protection

Gear. Doubles of #2, #1, #0.4 and a singular #3 if building a gear anchor at the top. We rapped off the tree a couple times; it is seemingly solid, but the gear anchor is ideal.