Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft|
|FA:||Ira OMC, Doug Scott|
|Page Views:||310 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Ira O on Jul 6, 2018|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
- Most of this route is 5.9 to 5.10 climbing with one semi-desparate move tgat can be aided through if needed.
- Start at the base of the next buttress past Jengarette. Follow the wider and left leaning of the two cracks until under the roof, then traverse left and upwards passing a bolt and some gear to a left arching layback crack that will then bring you to an offwidth with good face features to the left. Follow this up to a horizontal crack (#3 c4) which bisects the left arete. Mantle into this and a small ledge on the left side of the arete. Clip a bolt, then levitate up 3 feet to a small crimp and an (almost) jug where you will have a good stance to clip another bolt. (Crux). Continue up the difficult face to a small finger crack, another mantle, and a short off-width to a two bolt anchor.
Walk the trail until just below the Jengarette buttress, then continue to traverse the hillside for a couple minutes until below the obvious roof and arete. The route starts below the roof then continues up the left face of the buttress.