Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Ira OMC, Doug Scott
Page Views: 310 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ira O on Jul 6, 2018
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

  • Most of this route is 5.9 to 5.10 climbing with one semi-desparate move tgat can be aided through if needed. 

  1.  Start at the base of the next buttress past Jengarette. Follow the wider and left leaning of the two cracks until under the roof, then traverse left and upwards passing a bolt and some gear to a left arching layback crack that will then bring you to an offwidth with good face features to the left. Follow this up to a horizontal crack (#3 c4) which bisects the left arete.   Mantle into this and a small ledge on the left side of the arete.  Clip a bolt, then levitate up 3 feet to a small crimp and an (almost) jug where you will have a good stance to clip another bolt. (Crux).  Continue up the difficult face to a small finger crack, another mantle, and a short off-width to a two bolt anchor.

Location

Walk the trail until just below the Jengarette buttress, then continue to traverse the hillside for a couple minutes until below the obvious roof and arete.  The route starts below the roof then continues up the left face of the buttress. 

Protection

Trad gear. Believe it or not, I used 2 #3s and 4 #4s. 4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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