Elevation: 2,445 ft
GPS: 44.922, -71.742 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,571 total · 807/month
Shared By: Rob Niles on May 24, 2017
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

The main cliff at Black Mountain is where the majority of the routes are located. After some very adventurous bushwhacks to the cliff we slowly started to mark a trail and built some cairns that will lead you to the right side of the cliff. The first route you will come to after a cave formed by a large block leaning on the cliff is Bikes-N-Ditches. The main cliff has some high quality granite cracks and some airy arĂȘtes that are amazing to climb.

Getting There

Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging and cairns. (Approx. 15 min, Soggy in Spring)

49 Total Climbs

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Location: Main Cliff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Double D Cracks, Right Side
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Double D Cracks, Left Side
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Honeymoon Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Black Dreams
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Crows Fly Black
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Traffic Jam
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 19
Wild Black
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Jengarete
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Bikes-N-Ditches
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Black Plague
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 7
Black Plum
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Divided Sky
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Black Jesus
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Shadow Spirit
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Some Say the Crux is the Hardest…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double D Cracks, Right Side
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Double D Cracks, Left Side
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Honeymoon Arete
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Black Dreams
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crows Fly Black
 8
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Traffic Jam
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wild Black
 19
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Jengarete
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bikes-N-Ditches
 9
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Plague
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Plum
 7
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Divided Sky
 6
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Black Jesus
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Shadow Spirit
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Some Say the Crux is the Ha…
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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