Elevation: 2,445 ft
GPS: 44.922, -71.742 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,589 total · 383/month
Shared By: Rob Niles on May 24, 2017
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Tonight
52°F 11°C
Sun
65°F - 48°F 18°C - 9°C
Mon
68°F - 50°F 20°C - 10°C
Tue
70°F - 52°F 21°C - 11°C
Wed
70°F - 53°F 21°C - 12°C
Thu
68°F - 52°F 20°C - 11°C
Fri
63°F - 49°F 17°C - 9°C

Description

The main cliff at Black Mountain is where the majority of the routes are located. After some very adventurous bushwhacks to the cliff we slowly started to mark a trail and built some cairns that will lead you to the right side of the cliff. The first route you will come to after a cave formed by a large block leaning on the cliff is Bikes-N-Ditches. The main cliff has some high quality granite cracks and some airy arĂȘtes that are amazing to climb.

Getting There

Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging and cairns. (Approx. 15 min, Soggy in Spring)

24 Total Climbs

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Location: Main Cliff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Black Dreams
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Double D Cracks, Left Side
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Dirty Dreams
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Climbmax
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Traffic Jam
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Wild Black
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Bikes-N-Ditches
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Jengarete
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Dreams
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Double D Cracks, Left Side
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Dirty Dreams
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Climbmax
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Traffic Jam
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wild Black
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bikes-N-Ditches
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jengarete
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Cliff »

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