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Main Cliff Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Main Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Absence of Light, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Balancing Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Beer-Bellied Black Mountain Bushwhackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Bikes-N-Ditches T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black Beans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Black Bear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Clouds S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Dreams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Jesus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Black Mamba T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Black Moon Rising T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Black Opus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Black Plague T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black Plum T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Climbmax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Collage a Trois T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crows Fly Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	D 'n' B T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dirty Dreams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Divided Sky S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Double D Cracks, Left Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Double D Cracks, Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dreamy honeymoon- link up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Eight Lives Left T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Ejection Seat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Expanding Horizons T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Fear is the Mind Killer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fight For Your Mind (aka Go Left) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Frijoles negros T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grizzly T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Honeymoon Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hotstepper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Invisibilia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Jengarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jet Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Kingdom Heritage T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Krakatoa T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Log Skidder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lost Nation's Finest T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Meadowlark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Nyx T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Out of the Blue (and into the Black) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pet Badger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Possum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rainshadow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Shadow Spirit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	SOHCAHTOA T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Soliloquy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Some Say the Crux is the Hardest Part S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Soul Journey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Spice is Life, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Sweet Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Threat Level Midnight T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Traffic Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Traffic Jam Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unnamed Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Wild Black T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	2,445 ft	745 m
GPS:	44.92158, -71.74202 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	63,561 total · 611/month
Shared By:	Rob Niles on May 24, 2017 · Updates
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

The main cliff at Black Mountain is where the majority of the routes are located. After some very adventurous bushwhacks to the cliff we slowly started to mark a trail and built some cairns that will lead you to the right side of the cliff. The first route you will come to after a cave formed by a large block leaning on the cliff is Bikes-N-Ditches. The main cliff has some high quality granite cracks and some airy arêtes that are amazing to climb.

Getting There

Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging and cairns. (Approx. 15 min, Soggy in Spring)

58 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 45 ● Traffic Jam Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 19 ● The Absence of Light Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 20 ● Sweet Life Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 52 ● Wild Black Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 30 ● Jengarete Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 18 ● Bikes-N-Ditches Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 11 ● Black Plague Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 12 ● Sway Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 17 ● Black Plum Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 23 ● Divided Sky Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 9 ● Rainshadow Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 9 ● Traffic Jam Extension Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 19 ● Black Jesus Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 5 ● Shadow Spirit Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 9 ● Some Say the Crux is the Hardest… Sport