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Elevation: 2,445 ft
GPS: 44.92158, -71.74202
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 63,049 total · 767/month
Shared By: Rob Niles on May 24, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The main cliff at Black Mountain is where the majority of the routes are located. After some very adventurous bushwhacks to the cliff we slowly started to mark a trail and built some cairns that will lead you to the right side of the cliff. The first route you will come to after a cave formed by a large block leaning on the cliff is Bikes-N-Ditches. The main cliff has some high quality granite cracks and some airy arĂȘtes that are amazing to climb.

Getting There Suggest change

Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging and cairns. (Approx. 15 min, Soggy in Spring)

58 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Main Cliff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Traffic Jam
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Sweet Life
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
The Absence of Light
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
Wild Black
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Jengarete
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Bikes-N-Ditches
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Black Plague
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 11
Black Plum
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Soul Journey
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
Divided Sky
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Sway
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Black Jesus
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Traffic Jam Extension
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Shadow Spirit
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Some Say the Crux is the Hardest…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Traffic Jam
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sweet Life
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Absence of Light
 11
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Wild Black
 35
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jengarete
 22
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bikes-N-Ditches
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Plague
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Plum
 11
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Soul Journey
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Divided Sky
 15
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sway
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Black Jesus
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Traffic Jam Extension
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Shadow Spirit
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Some Say the Crux is the Ha…
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Cliff »

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