Main Cliff Rock Climbing
Routes in Main Cliff
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Absence of Light, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Balancing Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beer-Bellied Black Mountain Bushwhackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bikes-N-Ditches T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Beans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Black Bear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Clouds S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Dreams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Jesus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Mamba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Moon Rising T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Opus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Plague T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Plum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Climbmax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Collage a Trois T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crows Fly Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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D 'n' B T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dirty Dreams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Divided Sky S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Double D Cracks, Left Side T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double D Cracks, Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dreamy honeymoon- link up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eight Lives Left T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Ejection Seat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Expanding Horizons T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Fear is the Mind Killer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fight For Your Mind (aka Go Left) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Frijoles negros T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grizzly T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Honeymoon Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hotstepper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Invisibilia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jengarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jet Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Kingdom Heritage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Krakatoa T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Log Skidder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost Nation's Finest T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Meadowlark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nyx T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Out of the Blue (and into the Black) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pet Badger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Possum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rainshadow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shadow Spirit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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SOHCAHTOA T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Soliloquy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Some Say the Crux is the Hardest Part S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Soul Journey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Spice is Life, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sway T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sweet Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Threat Level Midnight T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Traffic Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Traffic Jam Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wild Black T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 2,445 ft | 745 m |
GPS: |
44.92158, -71.74202 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 63,383 total · 673/month | |
Shared By: | Rob Niles on May 24, 2017 · Updates | |
Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
Description
The main cliff at Black Mountain is where the majority of the routes are located. After some very adventurous bushwhacks to the cliff we slowly started to mark a trail and built some cairns that will lead you to the right side of the cliff. The first route you will come to after a cave formed by a large block leaning on the cliff is Bikes-N-Ditches. The main cliff has some high quality granite cracks and some airy arêtes that are amazing to climb.
Getting There
Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging and cairns. (Approx. 15 min, Soggy in Spring)
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
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● Black Dreams |
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5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
● Traffic Jam |
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
● Sweet Life |
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5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches | ||
● The Absence of Light |
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5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | ||
● Wild Black |
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5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | ||
● Jengarete |
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5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | ||
● Bikes-N-Ditches |
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5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad | ||
● Black Plague |
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5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad | ||
● Black Plum |
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5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad | ||
● Divided Sky |
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5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
● Sway |
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5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad | ||
● Traffic Jam Extension |
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5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad | ||
● Black Jesus |
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5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad | ||
● Shadow Spirit |
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5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad | ||
● Some Say the Crux is the Ha… |
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5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport |
Weather Averages
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