Elevation: 2,445 ft
GPS: 44.922, -71.742 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,253 total · 647/month
Shared By: Rob Niles on May 24, 2017
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

The main cliff at Black Mountain is where the majority of the routes are located. After some very adventurous bushwhacks to the cliff we slowly started to mark a trail and built some cairns that will lead you to the right side of the cliff. The first route you will come to after a cave formed by a large block leaning on the cliff is Bikes-N-Ditches. The main cliff has some high quality granite cracks and some airy arĂȘtes that are amazing to climb.

Getting There

Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging and cairns. (Approx. 15 min, Soggy in Spring)

36 Total Climbs

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Location: Main Cliff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Pet Badger
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Double D Cracks, Right Side
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Honeymoon Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Double D Cracks, Left Side
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Dirty Dreams
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Black Dreams
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Crows Fly Black
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Climbmax
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Traffic Jam
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Wild Black
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Bikes-N-Ditches
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Jengarete
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Black Plague
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Black Plum
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Black Jesus
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pet Badger
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Double D Cracks, Right Side
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Honeymoon Arete
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Double D Cracks, Left Side
 16
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dirty Dreams
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Black Dreams
 12
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crows Fly Black
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Climbmax
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Traffic Jam
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wild Black
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bikes-N-Ditches
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jengarete
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Black Plague
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Plum
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Black Jesus
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Main Cliff »

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