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Main Cliff

Vermont > Black Mountain

Description

The main cliff at Black Mountain is where the majority of the routes are located. After some very adventurous bushwhacks to the cliff we slowly started to mark a trail and built some cairns that will lead you to the right side of the cliff. The first route you will come to after a cave formed by a large block leaning on the cliff is Bikes-N-Ditches. The main cliff has some high quality granite cracks and some airy arĂȘtes that are amazing to climb.

Getting There

Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging and cairns. (Approx. 15 min, Soggy in Spring)

Routes from Left to Right

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 1
Black Moon Rising
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Jengarete
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 2
Black Opus
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 1
Jet Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Traffic Jam
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Wild Black
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
Black Beans
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Black Bear
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Dirty Dreams
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Black Dreams
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Honeymoon Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Log Skidder
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Unnamed Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Possum
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Pet Badger
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 1
Kingdom Heritage
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Black Plague
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 1
Grizzly
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Black Jesus
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Double D Cracks, Left Side
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Double D Cracks, Right Side
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Black Mamba
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Climbmax
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 1
Dikes-N-Bitches
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Bikes-N-Ditches
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Moon Rising
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Jengarete
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Black Opus
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jet Crack
 1
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Traffic Jam
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wild Black
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Black Beans
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Black Bear
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dirty Dreams
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Black Dreams
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Honeymoon Arete
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Log Skidder
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Unnamed Crack
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Possum
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pet Badger
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Kingdom Heritage
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Black Plague
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Grizzly
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Black Jesus
 1
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Double D Cracks, Left Side
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Double D Cracks, Right Side
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Black Mamba
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Climbmax
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Dikes-N-Bitches
 1
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Bikes-N-Ditches
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

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The route from the ground
[Hide Photo] The route from the ground