Black Mountain Rock Climbing
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Don't follow your GPS! It will likely take you to a closed gate and you won't have any service. Saving the directions and a bringing good map is a smart move.
There are two approach options. (from the North and South) Both have closed gates during mud season. As a general rule, the gates can be expected to open on Memorial Day, but you may get lucky and find earlier updated gate information here: https://vtfishandwildlife.com/hunt/find-a-place-to-hunt/find-a-wildlife-management-area/st-johnsbury-district-wmas/nek-and-kingdom-heritage-lands-road-conditions?fbclid=IwAR25euynbkMBrfs34t-OZ91_YiEJl8HD1is9i5mIBgLhjAcCtHTg-N36f7E
NOTE: The north approach is closed in the spring until Memorial Day.
From the North (recommended): Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff. (Approx. 20 min, Soggy in Spring)
From the South: A longer drive to the cliff (12.7mi.) but with smoother roads is to come in from the south through the Silvio Conte National Fish & Wildlife Refuge. From Island Pond go East on Rte. 105 until you pass the Silvio Conte Center on your left. After about 2 mi. further take a left on Stone Dam Road, Continue left at Peanut Dam Rd., the road becomes Canal Road. Eventually reach a junction with Eagles Nest Rd., take a right. Stay right at a fork (park kiosk) then after about a mile, cross a bridge and take left on Upper Tin Shack Road. After 3.4 miles reach a junction and take a left on a lesser traveled road. This is Tin Shack Spur Road, heading north. Do not take Upper Tin Shack Rd, which heads southeast. Now the main parking pullout for Black Mountain is another 1.8 mi.
Classic Climbing Routes at Black Mountain
Days w Precip