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Elevation: 2,307 ft 703 m
GPS: 44.92166, -71.74281
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 84,056 total · 914/month
Shared By: Rob Niles on May 19, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Black Mountain offers some great climbing in a very remote corner of Vermont. It has quality granite cracks of various sizes to keep you busy for a couple days. There is some potential for new stuff here and elsewhere in this region. The cliff itself falls into the track of land that is conserved by the Vermont Land Trust known as the Champion Lands, or Kingdom Heritage Lands. We have had no access issues or concerns climbing here for several years. Please be courteous of others and respectful of the land. Have fun and be cautious of loose rock.

Getting There Suggest change

Don't follow your GPS! It will likely take you to a closed gate and you won't have any service. Saving the directions and a bringing good map is a smart move. 

There are two approach options. (from the North and South) Both have closed gates during mud season. As a general rule, the gates can be expected to open on Memorial Day, but you may get lucky and find earlier updated gate information here: https://vtfishandwildlife.com/hunt/find-a-place-to-hunt/find-a-wildlife-management-area/st-johnsbury-district-wmas/nek-and-kingdom-heritage-lands-road-conditions?fbclid=IwAR25euynbkMBrfs34t-OZ91_YiEJl8HD1is9i5mIBgLhjAcCtHTg-N36f7E

NOTE: The north approach is closed in the spring until Memorial Day.

From the North (recommended): Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff. (Approx. 20 min, Soggy in Spring)

From the South: A longer drive to the cliff (12.7mi.) but with smoother roads is to come in from the south through the Silvio Conte National Fish & Wildlife Refuge. From Island Pond go East on Rte. 105 until you pass the Silvio Conte Center on your left. After about 2 mi. further take a left on Stone Dam Road, Continue left at Peanut Dam Rd., the road becomes Canal Road.  Eventually reach a junction with Eagles Nest Rd., take a right.  Stay right at a fork (park kiosk) then after about a mile, cross a bridge and take left on Upper Tin Shack Road. After 3.4 miles reach a junction and take a left on a lesser traveled road. This is Tin Shack Spur Road, heading north. Do not take Upper Tin Shack Rd, which heads southeast. Now the main parking pullout for Black Mountain is another 1.8 mi.

72 Total Climbs

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Location: Black Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Traffic Jam
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
Castle Black
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Sweet Life
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
The Absence of Light
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Wild Black
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Jengarete
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Bikes-N-Ditches
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Black Plague
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 13
Black Plum
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 19
Divided Sky
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Sway
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Traffic Jam Extension
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Black Jesus
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Shadow Spirit
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Some Say the Crux is the Hardest…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Traffic Jam Main Cliff
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Castle Black Black Mtn North
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sweet Life Main Cliff
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Absence of Light Main Cliff
 13
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Wild Black Main Cliff
 43
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jengarete Main Cliff
 27
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bikes-N-Ditches Main Cliff
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Plague Main Cliff
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Plum Main Cliff
 13
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Divided Sky Main Cliff
 19
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sway Main Cliff
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Traffic Jam Extension Main Cliff
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Black Jesus Main Cliff
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Shadow Spirit Main Cliff
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Some Say the Crux is the Ha… Main Cliff
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Black Mountain »

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