Elevation: 2,307 ft
GPS: 44.92166, -71.74281
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 82,715 total · 1,071/month
Shared By: Rob Niles on May 19, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Black Mountain offers some great climbing in a very remote corner of Vermont. It has quality granite cracks of various sizes to keep you busy for a couple days. There is some potential for new stuff here and elsewhere in this region. The cliff itself falls into the track of land that is conserved by the Vermont Land Trust known as the Champion Lands, or Kingdom Heritage Lands. We have had no access issues or concerns climbing here for several years. Please be courteous of others and respectful of the land. Have fun and be cautious of loose rock.

Getting There

Don't follow your GPS! It will likely take you to a closed gate and you won't have any service. Saving the directions and a bringing good map is a smart move. 

There are two approach options. (from the North and South) Both have closed gates during mud season. As a general rule, the gates can be expected to open on Memorial Day, but you may get lucky and find earlier updated gate information here: https://vtfishandwildlife.com/hunt/find-a-place-to-hunt/find-a-wildlife-management-area/st-johnsbury-district-wmas/nek-and-kingdom-heritage-lands-road-conditions?fbclid=IwAR25euynbkMBrfs34t-OZ91_YiEJl8HD1is9i5mIBgLhjAcCtHTg-N36f7E

NOTE: The north approach is closed in the spring until Memorial Day.

From the North (recommended): Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff. (Approx. 20 min, Soggy in Spring)

From the South: A longer drive to the cliff (12.7mi.) but with smoother roads is to come in from the south through the Silvio Conte National Fish & Wildlife Refuge. From Island Pond go East on Rte. 105 until you pass the Silvio Conte Center on your left. After about 2 mi. further take a left on Stone Dam Road, Continue left at Peanut Dam Rd., the road becomes Canal Road.  Eventually reach a junction with Eagles Nest Rd., take a right.  Stay right at a fork (park kiosk) then after about a mile, cross a bridge and take left on Upper Tin Shack Road. After 3.4 miles reach a junction and take a left on a lesser traveled road. This is Tin Shack Spur Road, heading north. Do not take Upper Tin Shack Rd, which heads southeast. Now the main parking pullout for Black Mountain is another 1.8 mi.

71 Total Climbs

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Location: Black Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Double D Cracks, Right Side
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Honeymoon Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
Double D Cracks, Left Side
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Pet Badger
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Dirty Dreams
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Black Dreams
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Invisibilia
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Traffic Jam
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Collage a Trois
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
Wild Black
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Jengarete
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Bikes-N-Ditches
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 14
Divided Sky
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Black Jesus
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Some Say the Crux is the Hardest…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double D Cracks, Right Side Main Cliff
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Honeymoon Arete Main Cliff
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Double D Cracks, Left Side Main Cliff
 33
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Pet Badger Main Cliff
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Dirty Dreams Main Cliff
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Black Dreams Main Cliff
 27
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Invisibilia Main Cliff
 22
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Traffic Jam Main Cliff
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Collage a Trois Main Cliff
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Wild Black Main Cliff
 35
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jengarete Main Cliff
 21
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bikes-N-Ditches Main Cliff
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Divided Sky Main Cliff
 14
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Black Jesus Main Cliff
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Some Say the Crux is the Ha… Main Cliff
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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