Elevation: 2,307 ft
GPS: 44.922, -71.743 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 55,661 total · 1,051/month
Shared By: Rob Niles on May 19, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Black Mountain offers some great climbing in a very remote corner of Vermont. It has quality granite cracks of various sizes to keep you busy for a couple days. There is some potential for new stuff here and elsewhere in this region. The cliff itself falls into the track of land that is conserved by the Vermont Land Trust known as the Champion Lands, or Kingdom Heritage Lands. We have had no access issues or concerns climbing here for several years. Please be courteous of others and respectful of the land. Have fun and be cautious of loose rock.

Getting There

Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging. (Approx. 20 min, Soggy in Spring)

A longer drive to the cliff (12.7mi.) but with smoother roads is to come in from the south through the Silvio Conte National Fish & Wildlife Refuge. From Island Pond go East on Rte. 105 until you pass the Silvio Conte Center on your left. After about 2 mi. further take a left on Stone Dam Road, Continue left at Peanut Dam Rd., the road becomes Canal Road.  Eventually reach a junction with Eagles Nest Rd., take a right.  Stay right at a fork (park kiosk) then after about a mile, cross a bridge and take left on Upper Tin Shack Road. After 3.4 miles reach a junction and take a left on a lesser traveled road. This is Tin Shack Spur Road, heading north. Do not take Upper Tin Shack Rd, which heads southeast. Now the main parking pullout for Black Mountain is another 1.8 mi.

54 Total Climbs

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Location: Black Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Double D Cracks, Right Side
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Double D Cracks, Left Side
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Honeymoon Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Black Dreams
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Crows Fly Black
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Traffic Jam
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 19
Wild Black
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Jengarete
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Bikes-N-Ditches
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Black Plague
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 7
Black Plum
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Divided Sky
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Black Jesus
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Shadow Spirit
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Some Say the Crux is the Hardest…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double D Cracks, Right Side Main Cliff
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Double D Cracks, Left Side Main Cliff
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Honeymoon Arete Main Cliff
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Black Dreams Main Cliff
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crows Fly Black Main Cliff
 8
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Traffic Jam Main Cliff
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wild Black Main Cliff
 19
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Jengarete Main Cliff
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bikes-N-Ditches Main Cliff
 9
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Plague Main Cliff
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Plum Main Cliff
 7
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Divided Sky Main Cliff
 6
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Black Jesus Main Cliff
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Shadow Spirit Main Cliff
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Some Say the Crux is the Ha… Main Cliff
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Black Mountain »

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