Elevation: 2,307 ft
GPS: 44.922, -71.743 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,692 total · 876/month
Shared By: Rob Niles on May 19, 2017 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Black Mountain offers some great climbing in a very remote corner of Vermont. It has quality granite cracks of various sizes to keep you busy for a couple days. There is some potential for new stuff here and elsewhere in this region. The cliff itself falls into the track of land that is conserved by the Vermont Land Trust known as the Champion Lands, or Kingdom Heritage Lands. We have had no access issues or concerns climbing here for several years. Please be courteous of others and respectful of the land. Have fun and be cautious of loose rock.

Getting There

Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging. (Approx. 20 min, Soggy in Spring)

A longer drive to the cliff (12.7mi.) but with smoother roads is to come in from the south through the Silvio Conte National Fish & Wildlife Refuge. From Island Pond go East on Rte. 105 until you pass the Silvio Conte Center on your left. After about 2 mi. further take a left on Stone Dam Road, Continue left at Peanut Dam Rd., the road becomes Canal Road.  Eventually reach a junction with Eagles Nest Rd., take a right.  Stay right at a fork (park kiosk) then after about a mile, cross a bridge and take left on Upper Tin Shack Road. After 3.4 miles reach a junction and take a left on a lesser traveled road. This is Tin Shack Spur Road, heading north. Do not take Upper Tin Shack Rd, which heads southeast. Now the main parking pullout for Black Mountain is another 1.8 mi.

39 Total Climbs

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Location: Black Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Pet Badger
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Double D Cracks, Right Side
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Honeymoon Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Double D Cracks, Left Side
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Dirty Dreams
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Black Dreams
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Crows Fly Black
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Climbmax
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Traffic Jam
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Wild Black
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Bikes-N-Ditches
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Jengarete
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Black Plague
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Black Plum
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Black Jesus
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pet Badger Main Cliff
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Double D Cracks, Right Side Main Cliff
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Honeymoon Arete Main Cliff
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Double D Cracks, Left Side Main Cliff
 16
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dirty Dreams Main Cliff
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Black Dreams Main Cliff
 12
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crows Fly Black Main Cliff
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Climbmax Main Cliff
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Traffic Jam Main Cliff
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wild Black Main Cliff
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bikes-N-Ditches Main Cliff
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jengarete Main Cliff
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Black Plague Main Cliff
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Plum Main Cliff
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Black Jesus Main Cliff
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Black Mountain »

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