All Locations > Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Black Mountain > Main Cliff

Sweet Life

Name: Sweet Life
Rating: 3.6

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Main Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Absence of Light, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Balancing Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Beer-Bellied Black Mountain Bushwhackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Bikes-N-Ditches T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black Beans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Black Bear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Clouds S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Dreams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Jesus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Black Mamba T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Black Moon Rising T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Black Opus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Black Plague T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black Plum T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Climbmax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Collage a Trois T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crows Fly Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	D 'n' B T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dirty Dreams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Divided Sky S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Double D Cracks, Left Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Double D Cracks, Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dreamy honeymoon- link up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Eight Lives Left T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Ejection Seat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Expanding Horizons T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Fear is the Mind Killer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fight For Your Mind (aka Go Left) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Frijoles negros T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grizzly T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Honeymoon Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hotstepper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Invisibilia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Jengarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jet Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Kingdom Heritage T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Krakatoa T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Log Skidder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lost Nation's Finest T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Meadowlark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Nyx T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Out of the Blue (and into the Black) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pet Badger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Possum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rainshadow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Shadow Spirit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	SOHCAHTOA T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Soliloquy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Some Say the Crux is the Hardest Part S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Soul Journey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Spice is Life, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Sweet Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Threat Level Midnight T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Traffic Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Traffic Jam Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unnamed Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Wild Black T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	44.92158, -71.74202
FA:	Kristin Dolcimascolo, Ryan Stefiuk, 2020
Page Views:	1,227 total · 21/month
Shared By:	Ryan Stefiuk on Aug 3, 2021
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Sweet Life tackles the right edge of the giant northwest face of the larger buttress that is formed by the Traffic Jam gully on the right and a large upper face on the left. From bottom to top this route is simply amazing. Sweet Life is destined to become "the 5.9" to do at Black Mountain the way Wild Black may be "the 5.10".

P1. 70' 5.8 Climb straight up following amazing cracks along the left edge of a giant gully. At mid height there is a large block sitting on a ledge on the right. This block doesn't move but isn't attached. It's possible and reasonable to stay left, only using the block to stand on. Pass one bolt on the left face, avoiding the crumbly blocks in the chimney to the right. Belay at 2 bolts on a ledge in a small alcove.

P2. 100' 5.9+ Simply amazing climbing along a unique feature. After 10 feet of cracks follow the arete up and left as it snakes along the edge of the large face (steep). Climb past 4 bolts (optional gold camalot in a horizontal on right after the first bolt) and gain the giant, wedged block (hero climbing). A blue BD X4 or green alien off left helps protect this exposed section along the arete. The angle eases here and the remainder of the pitch has thoughtful off vertical face climbing in a wonderful and exposed setting along the arete. Gear to 3" is useful along the upper arete. Gain the ledge on top and belay using the Soul Journey anchor to the left.

Rappel down Soul Journey. Getting back to the belay on Sweet Life will be challenging due to the traversing nature of the pitch.

Location

Gain the same wooded terrace as for Expanding Horizons. Go past Expanding Horizons and gain a flat granite pedestal 15' up, just below the vertical crack system.