Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Black Mountain

Vermont

Description

Black Mountain offers some great climbing in a very remote corner of Vermont. It has quality granite cracks of various sizes to keep you busy for a couple days. There is some potential for new stuff here and elsewhere in this region. The cliff itself falls into the track of land that is conserved by the Vermont Land Trust known as the Champion Lands, or Kingdom Heritage Lands. We have had no access issues or concerns climbing here for several years. Please be courteous of others and respectful of the land. Have fun and be cautious of loose rock.

Getting There

Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging. (Approx. 15 min, Soggy in Spring)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Black Mountain's main cliff as seen from the parking area.
[Hide Photo] Black Mountain's main cliff as seen from the parking area.
Black fly season at Black Mountain. We applied Off Deep Woods several times this day. He was wearing long pants.
[Hide Photo] Black fly season at Black Mountain. We applied Off Deep Woods several times this day. He was wearing long pants.
Parking Area and Approach Trail
[Hide Photo] Parking Area and Approach Trail
Getting there
[Hide Photo] Getting there
Getting there
[Hide Photo] Getting there
The cave where the approach trail meets the cliff.
[Hide Photo] The cave where the approach trail meets the cliff.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
[Hide Comment] Hey, Rob! Thanks for adding this to the MP database! A great addition for climbers who want to get out into the far reaches of VT and away from the crowds! May 22, 2017
Ira O
Hardwick, VT
[Hide Comment] I went out there today on a rainy day reconnoiter. It is, for lack of a better word, amazing. It is a trad climbers paradise. its like nothing else in VT. Tons of splitter cracks, corners, and overhanging ominous aretes. Definately more routes than are described here at this point. However, there is a gate on the road that was closed and locked about 5 miles away from the cliff. It took me a solid 2 hours to walk in to the main cliff, without a pack. A mountain bike would have made this better. or better yet, not having a gate at all. I also saw a mother bear with 2 cubs, and then a mile past them, a big male bear, so watch out for that. May 26, 2017
[Hide Comment] Ira, Glad you made it there! I've never seen the gate closed, not sure who is in control of it. There are a couple other ways there from the south, Henshaw Rd and Stone Dam Rd, but are much longer on the dirt. We'll get the rest of the routes uploaded shortly. Glad you liked what you saw. May 27, 2017
[Hide Comment] Was up there on Wednesday (July7). Moved the past winter's deadfall out of the approach trail and along the main cliff. Also did my best to mark the parking area with a large cairn, as well as the logging trail that circumvents the wetland area near the start. Watch out for log trucks on Gaudette Rd! Jul 7, 2017
[Hide Comment] I found some gear out at the cliff today that I don't think anyone intended to leave behind. If you can describe specifically what it is, I'll be happy to figure out how to return it to you. Sep 14, 2017
Brian Peront
Enfield, NH
[Hide Comment] Hi Folks,

Last weekend I tried to get there and as you said the Road is closed : ( I ended up taking a bike ride and had a good day out there. Since the road is closed from the north maybe the south end is open ?

does anyone know ?

Bob Zaino - Last year I left a double sling on one of the climbs : ) my bad : )


Thanks to anyone who has any info on the south end ? Last year I did drive up from the south end and it was a bit tricky but I got there : )

Thanks
Brian Jun 7, 2018
TSluiter
Holland, VT
[Hide Comment] As of May 11, gate is open coming from the north on Gaudette road, I think the loggers were lazy and didn't lock it. Washout along several portions of the road but, as of two days ago, it can be navigated almost all the way to the crag before hitting deep snow. A couple more warm days should fix that.

Initial washout/sinkhole near the gate is the worst, if you can get through it, you can probably get all the way to the crag. If the rains do anymore damage, it will have to be fixed (or you bring a couple boards to make a bridge for yourself). May 11, 2019
TSluiter
Holland, VT
[Hide Comment] Road from the north had the initial washout fixed.
However, there is a serious (3 ft) sinkhole developing in the middle of the road a couple miles in. Take care or a few boards.

Also, the bugs are murder right now. Jun 14, 2019