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Out of the Blue (and into the Black)

5.11a, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Ira O'Meara, Caleb Fischer
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Black Mountain > Main Cliff
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Description

Climbs the right side of the Black Clouds slab, then continues up the cool, thin corner to a overhanging wall above. Techy crack and corner climbing leads to steep sporty climbing. 

Pitch 1: Locate a black bolt to the right of the obvious bolted line of Black Clouds. Climb the slab and thin corner crack (small cams) then make thin moves up to a ledge, 10d. PG.  This pitch can be skipped by walking up the gully to the right. It is also one of the few pitches at Black that is easy to set up a toprope. 

Pitch 2: the money pitch.  From the 2 bolt anchor on the ledge, move left and get established in the cracks on the left side of the corner. A #2 protects the moves off the ledge. Clip a bolt, back-clean the #2,  and climb the thin cracks and corner for 35 feet. (The first crux is pretty low, so protect early and often.) At its top, move right an reach to clip a bolt. Step back down and engage in steep, gymnastic climbing (second crux) to reach a jug right. Clip another bolt then perform another big move to another great edge. Continue up more easily to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 

Location

Starts at the tounge of rock that comes down to the trail between Sweet Life area and Jengarete. The slab is steeper and harder than it looks! This is the route on the right. Pitch 2 starts at a ledge about 70 feet up- one could bypass the first pitch and hike up the steep gully on the right to gain that ledge. 

Protection

P1: bolts and a couple small cams 

P2 : 6 or 7 Bolts , finger sized trad gear (0 cam to .75) optional #2 for below the first bolt on p2. 

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Stefiuk
Northampton, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing route and one I'll come back to again and again. We climbed Black Clouds and traversed across to access the ledge at the start. Fun technical stemming down low and really good jugs up high. I felt like the crux was the boulder problem past the creepy left-facing flakes at mid-height, probably 11b. Possible to lower to ground with a 70m but watch the ends! Don't forget a 0.5 camalot for the exit moves or you'll be a little too thrilled. Oct 13, 2021