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Routes in The Keel
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Barking Spiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Barking Up the Wrong Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bizarro Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boomer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Drunken Sailors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dumb Fun T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dutch Rudder, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gen Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Inertia Creeps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Keel Haul T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Kings of Cribbage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mezzanine S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mystery Moon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Peter's Flight School T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Pin Man A3+ R |
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Poopy Hunch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Portside Shuffle T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Razor Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Spotted Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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TexasFlake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Wall of Illusion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Kent Wheeler, Clay Watson |
| Page Views: | 1,374 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on May 26, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Climb easy blocks and cracks for 30' with good gear until you reach the bolted arete. Move through the blocky flake, clipping bolts, crimping sharp, ever shrinking edges. Mantle and climb your way through the very unique and fun pixel section, which requires sorting through the hundreds of small green patina 'pixels' to find the ones that fit you.
Move up and right towards another flake, catch your breath on a good edge then pull around to the right of the arete, using a cool sloper undercling and eventually pulling around to a stance on a cool double chickenhead. Pull into the final 25' runnel using the unique sloper rail, pinching and/or sloping all the way to the anchor.
Very cool, unique and fun climbing that is surprisingly sustained. Keeping the lower flakes makes this an edging crux instead of pure slab. Keeping those flakes also required Gen Z infrastructure. It holds 200# guys but please tread lightly as you pull through the first 2 bolts.
Location
This starts at an anchor at the bottom of the tree rappel from the Sail and is directly to the right of Boomer, most of the way up the Keel.
Approach via 3rd class from the very base of the Keel, using a) "Hi! I'm the best guide EVAR", b) via 3rd class from the middle of the Keel or c) via Bizarro Duck, then 3rd class.
Descend with one 35m rappel to the climbers left, directly over Bizarro Duck. There is an anchor on a ledge by there but a 70m gets you all the way to the ground in the upper part of the gully.
Protection
A couple of finger sized pieces up to #1 camalot, a few long runners, draws. 10 bolts? 70m rope please.
The belay anchors are difficult to get to from the top (i.e. hard to toprope without climbing). They also make a nice finish for the alternative finish to Peters Flight School. A single 70 will get you back to the Gen Z anchors (be careful), there's not a lot of extra.
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