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Routes in The Keel

Barking Spiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Barking Up the Wrong Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bizarro Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dumb Fun T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hi. I'm The Best Guide EVAR! T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Inertia Creeps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kings of Cribbage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mezzanine S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Peter's Flight School T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Pin Man A3+ R
Poopy Hunch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Razor Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TexasFlake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: B. Perkins, D. Ward, C. Watson
Page Views: 706 total · 17/month
Shared By: zoso on May 11, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The name is a clue as to the route's location. And before you get your butt floss in a wad, read the comments below.

This climbs what we sincerely thought was a new line and at least 10-15 feet left of the original Barking Spiders. It climbs the obvious slab below Razor Flake but trends left after bolt 4.

You can either climb this route in it's entirety OR after clipping bolt 4, head right and up RF--all in 1 pitch (2 stars imo).
For RF you'll need a #1,2,3 camalot. New chains on top to rap with a 70m to the start.

Location

Start from the chains at the top of "Hi. I'm the Best Guide EVAR!". Cross the slab and plug in a cam or 2 after stepping up onto a block. Everything is solid here, but tread lightly. Climb up to bolt 1 then traverse mostly right and up to bolt 2. If you don't enjoy rope drag, be sure to place long draws on bolts 2, 4, and 5. For the most entertainment, stay on the main slab as long as possible, but you will be forced to the low-angle ramp eventually. Clip the rappel station, but keep on climbing higher up the ramp . Follow this ramp up and left to chains at it's terminus. Check out the face above and consider bolting it in your spare time--it looks pretty interesting.

Rap to the midway chains and then again to where you started. A 70m WILL NOT get you to the start from the top, hence the mid-way rap station (We thought it disrespectful to place a new anchor at the bottom of Razor Flake as it's all gear).
Attention gumbies: the 1st rap is pretty directional and a fall left over the edge of the ramp could be bad. Darn gravity.

Protection

Bring a .5 and/or a .75 camalot, draws, several long draws, and a deep respect for the real first ascensionist who led this thing with only 1 hand-drilled 1/4" bolt way the hell up there while standing on a 1/4" edge. 10 clips.

Photos

zoso
  5.8
zoso  
  5.8
Gather 'round kids fo story time.

All info we could garner about Barking Spiders was vague at best. BS was simply labeled 5.8X *, with info such as "Climb the runout slab just left of a row of trees growing in a crack..."(Ruckman's) and "Start left of bushes growing in a crack...unprotectable until you are near the top. A fall would likely be fatal."(MP). And the topos were pretty useless as well.

Looking at the slab, we surmised that BS was RIGHT of the blunt arete (just left of the row of trees). The slab LEFT of the blunt arete was therefore free game and possibly a good way to get to RF.

Drilled on lead, BUTWS was thus installed. It wasn't until I reached bolt #4 that the poaching was realized. Bolt 4 was already there, an SMC 1/4" (since replaced). Well shit.

Damn. No mention of a bolt on BS anywhere.

Thus the route sat for a couple years, with me not knowing what to do with it. Then it finally dawned on me. I explained the whole debacle to the actual FA: Thomas Koch. Here's his refreshing response:

"...I know Bill is no longer with us, so I will speak for both.
We did this climb a long time ago and I do not remember the details. Typically my routes follow the weakest, and hopefully the most enjoyable route in a given face.
You are right about my hand drilling, I would have never set bolts from rapelling into a climb...If I could not do it cleanly from below I would have to leave it to the next generation.
In those days I was also doing things a little more run out then I would recommend today, I just turned 60...
So, I really do not mind your improvement or new way around “Barking Spiders”, I do not own the mountains and want everyone to enjoy, respect and love them.

With best regards,

Thomas Koch"

Of note, if you look at many of the ground-up FA's that Thomas and Bill did, Thomas is usually listed 1st. Brass is no where NEAR dense enough to describe his balls. May 11, 2015
1) It's super cool that you realized your mistake, then figured out how to fix it. I always assumed that Bill Robbins was driving these creations, without even hearing Thomas' name.

2) While this is lower angle, there are more edges than smears. Undercling/sidepulls on a slab are really fun!

3) This thing had some rockfall sometime between the Koch and Perkins eras. (Hence the bolt placements) We'll see if the grade sticks but it's clean now.

4) Serious credit needs to be given to the previous guidebook authors. The got most of their stuff spot on, in a relatively large, complex canyon. This one of a very small, vague few. They did us a favor because this wouldn't have happened without their help. It's a nice little line that is also well protected now. Credit to Thomas for being so nice about it. Credit to Bryce for trying to drill on lead. May 13, 2015
zoso
  5.8
zoso  
  5.8
What do you mean "trying"? It was one of the scariest things I've ever done. I was glad I corked my ass before I started. May 13, 2015
bsmoot  
When Bill reported first ascents, he sometimes listed his partner first, even if he led the crux. May 14, 2015
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Quite a bit of loose rock between bolts one and two. I pulled off a big chunk of an important hand hold. It's a better foot now at least. Great moves up to the small ledge above bolt two.

I decided to bail at bolt three because I wasn't feeling particularly bold (as usual). The bolt is about chest level when standing on top of the small ledge. If you were to fall going above this bolt you would deck on the ledge and kiss your ankles goodbye.

I wanted to be psyched about the route, it looks like a lot of fun. Feb 20, 2016
zoso
  5.8
zoso  
  5.8
Sorry it didn't jive with you Garret, maybe this isn't a 5.8 route for a 5.8 leader. I never once thought about bashing my ankles up on that ledge, but the move off of it is 1 of the cruxes of the route for sure. Guess I'm just used to LCC/trad style and this therefore didn't seem overly risky to me.

Wow that sounded pompous. Didn't mean to imply you're only a 5.8 leader, just being honest about what people should expect I suppose. Thanks for the feedback. Mar 2, 2016
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
The 2012 and 2014 guidebooks have a clear color photograph of Barking Spiders that shows where the fixed protection is on it. May 16, 2016
zoso
  5.8
zoso  
  5.8
Tony said: "The 2012 and 2014 guidebooks have a clear color photograph of Barking Spiders that shows where the fixed protection is on it."

Good point. I should have said "reputable" guides. My bad. Thanks. May 16, 2016
Tofu Brain
Denver
Tofu Brain   Denver
Zoso, thanks for making a note on what T-dawg said, I'm sure he will delete it in the next day or two. May 16, 2016
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
I was just trying to point Clay to the information he was looking for. I know it is too late now. But he might want a clear color photograph of established climbing routes in Little Cottonwood for future projects. I'm willing to give him a free copy of the print guide or the Rakkup App if he wants. May 16, 2016
Tofu Brain
Denver
Tofu Brain   Denver
"I was just trying to point Clay to the information he was looking for. I know it is too late now. But he might want a clear color photograph of established climbing routes in Little Cottonwood for future projects. I'm willing to give him a free copy of the print guide or the Rakkup App if he wants."

Wow, that is so sweet of you. Does the free copy of the print guide come with a few extra dedication pages to your imaginary super hero? May 16, 2016

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