Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: B. Perkins, D. Ward, C. Watson
Page Views: 940 total · 16/month
Shared By: zoso on May 11, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The name is a clue as to the route's location. And before you get your butt floss in a wad, read the comments below.

This climbs what we sincerely thought was a new line and at least 10-15 feet left of the original Barking Spiders. It climbs the obvious slab below Razor Flake but trends left after bolt 5.

You can either climb this route in it's entirety OR after clipping bolt 5, head right and up Razor Flake--all in 1 pitch (2 stars imo).

Location

Start from the chains at the top of Hi!  I'm the best guide EVAR!. Cross the slab and plug in a cam or 2 after stepping up onto a block.  Climb up to bolt 1 then traverse mostly right and up to bolt 2. Launch up to the nice ledge and continue up the slab on perfect rock.  Although a bit contrived, stay on the slabby goodness and clip bolt 6.  Then clip the rappel station, but keep on climbing higher up the ramp . Follow this ramp up and left to chains at it's terminus. Check out the face above and consider bolting it in your spare time--it looks pretty interesting.

Consider long runners for some of the bolts to reduce rope drag. 

Rap to the midway chains and then again to where you started. A 70m WILL NOT get you to the start from the top, hence the mid-way rap station.

Protection

Bring a .5 and/or a .75 camalot, draws, several long draws, and a deep respect for the real first ascensionist who led this thing with only 1 hand-drilled 1/4" bolt way the hell up there while standing on a 1/4" edge. 11 clips.

Photos