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Routes in The Keel
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A Pound Of Flesh S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barking Spiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Barking Up the Wrong Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bizarro Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boomer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Drunken Sailors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dumb Fun T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dutch Rudder, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gen Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Inertia Creeps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Keel Haul T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Kings of Cribbage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mezzanine S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mystery Moon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Peter's Flight School T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Pin Man A3+ R |
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Poopy Hunch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Portside Shuffle T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Razor Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Spotted Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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TexasFlake T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Wall of Illusion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.57377, -111.77007 |
| FA: | Albert England/Josiah Dover AND Kent Wheeler/Clay Watson |
| Page Views: | 1,504 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Oct 28, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Climbs a fun little finger and hand crack, 3 bolts of face climbing on thin edges to jugs, a finger crack to a tree, then edgy face up a fun dihedral.
We cleaned a ton of loose rock throughout that dihedral in spring 2019, then it got too hot so we bailed on it. When we went back in October 2019 to finish equipping it we found AJ's bolts. We connected and this is the result.
Location
APPROACH:
This is on the upper Keel, in the dihedral to the R of Texas Flake and to the L of Pete's Flight School.
Approach as you would for Texas Flake, which is accessed by either scrambling up 5th class slabs OR by climbing Bizarro Duck. You can traverse from either the bottom Anchor of Texas Flake or the top of Bizarro Duck, then traverse over right to the anchor at the bottom of the dihedral.
You can also climb "Hi, I'm the best Guide EVar!", which ends at a 2-bolt anchor at the start of Barking Up the Wrong Spider. From there, scramble to the 2-bolt anchor at the bottom of a crack system on the Right side of TF.
CLIMBING:
The anchor is below the dihedral to the R of TF. Starting at the bottom anchor, climb the crack, diverting onto the face, following the 3 obvious up and right on cool edges and eventually exiting into thin finger cracks above the small roof. Climb past the tree, using gear in the dihedral and one bolt on the cool green face till you finish at the bolted anchors. The climbing starts to deteriorate in the upper part of the dihedral above these anchors, but it is easy climbing and can be used to access the Sail.
DESCENT: Rappel to the bottom anchor with a 70m rope. A) Preferred - rappel over to climbers left and down into the gully. You'll emerge significantly uphill, then pull the ropes and walk down to your packs. There is an anchor on a ledge by there but a 70m gets you all the way to the ground in the upper part of the gully. B) It's more complicated but you could theoretically rap down to the anchor of "Hi, I'm the Best Guide eVar". But this really is a rope stretcher and likely 38M. I don't like doing it this way at all.
Protection
Camalots to green, TCU and a wires. Long sling for tree is nice
We added a slightly lower bolted anchor to avoid climbing the last 20' of choss. This makes getting back down to the chains with a 70m rope a lot less spooky. Also lessens the likelihood of dropping bombs onto your friends.
PLEASE NOTE: If you go all the way to the tree, this pitch is almost exactly 35m. Watch your rope when lowering because it is very close. When tied in for leading and with gear placements taking up distance, a 70M barely works with rope stretch.
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