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Routes in The Keel

Barking Spiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Barking Up the Wrong Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bizarro Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dumb Fun T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hi. I'm The Best Guide EVAR! T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Inertia Creeps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kings of Cribbage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mezzanine S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Peter's Flight School T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Pin Man A3+ R
Poopy Hunch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Razor Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TexasFlake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 220 ft
FA: Kelly Paasch
Page Views: 610 total · 13/month
Shared By: KPRTX on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Approach as if going to the Coffin. Send Hi I'm the best guide EVAR! all the way to the first anchors looker's left at the high ledge. Drop your pack and rack up here. Look straight up to the steep Texas-shaped flake. Initially clip Tony's first bolt about 40 ft off the belay (5.4ish) or bring some small to medium gear for the slab if you like. Shortly after Tony's bolt you will see a bolt straight up the steeper slab that is close. Climb the slab above the bolt to a .5-.75 placement protecting a mantelish move (5.8) up still steeper rock. Continue towards the flake on easier ground to a fixed off brand knifeblade. Do a difficult crimp and edges move to another bolt directly below the flake. Breathe, relax, and get ready for the crux pump. You can place a yellow TCU in the bottom of the flake, but I wouldn't recommend it. Climb the flake clipping one bolt about half way up. The flake is THIN! Please don't place gear in the flake as it will break, and the route will be lost. It flexes a bit if you pull hard on the east edge. Although it doesn't look it from below this section is overhung and pumpy. At the top of the flake a horn takes a .75 and a 1.0 Camalot pretty well. The crux (or one of them) is transitioning to the slab above. Watch for the newly trimmed mountain mahogany as it may have some pointy parts left. Two bolts on the slab bring you to a bit runout finish. Hanging belay from the top or you can lower to an intermediate stance (no bolts) for more comfort. I'm not sure you can do this route on a 60m without starting higher up on the easy slab. Bring lots of runners as it meanders a bit and the rope drag can be ridiculous.

Special Thanks to Austin Fought and Kevin Langlois for late nights with a drill by headlamp and long cold belays, I couldn't have got it done without you!

Location

This route is directly below the sail, and excellent access for climbing the sail without the typical sail approach. If your heading to the sail, watch for the slung tree for your first rap point. From the tree 2 raps to the top of I'm the best guide EVAR with a 70m and a hint of rope stretch and down climbing. From Texas flake anchors take 2 ropes or plan some easy 5.4 down climbing at the end. This route is new and still has that grainy unpolished granite, holds on the upper slab are fragile, please don't destroy them. There is a handlebar on the upper slab that is really cool..and really fragile. There are a few places with a run out but the cruxes are all protected pretty well. I'd like to hear your comments if they are nice, and you have a name. Feel free to PM me.

Protection

6 bolts, 1 piton, 1 yellow TCU, 1 .5, 2 .75, 1 1.0 lots of slings, even a couple 4 footers help down low. Rap anchors at the top.

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