Type: Aid, 90 ft
FA: Troy Anderson Solo
Page Views: 109 total · 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on May 13, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This short aid route is located next(right) to DUMB FUN which is located on the east side of the trail to the COFFIN. It is offically located on the KEEL, if you want to look up DUMB FUN in the guidebook. Start the same as for DUMB FUN, then traverse right via bolts and thin nails. Clip a bolt at the lip of the roof, then cautiously tap your way up the featured slab above. After a few spicy moves, mantle a shelf, then slug wonderful long arrows to a chain anchor. Make sure you are knowledgable in the practice of delicate nailing, otherwise this route may not be around in the future. I feel this route to be harder then TIN MAN, yet easier then SKIN MAN (pending that all the fixed gear was pulled out of skin man and you had to hammer new heads). Compared to the BLACK ARCH, I couldn't say, I wimped out on that climb.


five smaller blades, long lost arrows, four beaks, one or two rurps (depending on height of climber). Basically, bring a nailing rack.


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Anonymous Coward  
Just what we need out there, more contrived nailing and bolted lines!!! Clean and Free are the words my brother, you even said it yourself. "must be good at thin nailing". Don't worry, soon enough there will be some nice scars to take heads, then baby angles then a nut. That'll be nice and pretty!! yeehaw!!! May 21, 2005
Anonymous Coward  
Did this route recently. Definatly not A3+.....but some nice thin nailing. One man's A1 is another's A5....whatever, it's an aid route, nothing to be too proud of. Aug 1, 2005